This is not really a problem, but something that "could" be a little better and was wondering is my findings are typical for the Firestorm, or there's something I could do to improve it.
Firstly, let me say, I also have a Yamaha TDM (which has some kinda fuel pump thingy) which ticks when you turn the key in the ignition, only 2 or 3 ticks if let overnight, and poss 10 or 20 ticks if left standing, which I guess is it priming the system and getting the fuel right up to the carbs)
Anyway, with that out of the way. the Firestorm does not have anything like this I guess?
What I find is, if I ride the bike one day (kept in garage) then go to start the following morning, it starts after only about 1 second on the button. Just a few cranks of the engine and it fires.
However, say I leave it 2 or 4 weeks, then do the same, it could take up to about 5 seconds of cranking to get the engine to fire.
Perhaps it's cos there is no fuel getting to the carbs after sitting for a few weeks?
So, is this kinda normal, or should it still instantly fire up, even after a week or 2 or 4 of just sitting?
If others don't find this, is there any easy method to improve things?
Starting..........
Hi 
as you said your tdm Clicks which is the fuel pump pushing fuel into the carb's
However the Storm doesn't have a pump so once left for a while the carbs will drain a little taking a little longer for the tank to suck up the fuel.
you could fit a fuel pump to the storm but to be honest i wouldn't worry about it
Hope that helps
as you said your tdm Clicks which is the fuel pump pushing fuel into the carb's
However the Storm doesn't have a pump so once left for a while the carbs will drain a little taking a little longer for the tank to suck up the fuel.
you could fit a fuel pump to the storm but to be honest i wouldn't worry about it
Hope that helps
If its a TDM 900 (like mine) it doesn't have carbs its fuel injected and that's whats happening when you turn the key.
The Storm does have a starting "knack" and will take a few more cranks if left for a while.
I find it best to turn the starter over with NO CHOKE for a few turns. Stop. Wait a second, pull out the choke gently whilst pressing the starter again and she will fire up.
The Storm doesn't have the "sophistictated" autochoke like facilities of a fuel injected bike, the trouble with many of them is the jery throttle response. The TDM suffers from this a bit, and hunts in 3rd at 30mph, but nowehere near as badly as the new Fazer. My Storm, on the other hand, has a lot smoother throttle action.
The Storm does have a starting "knack" and will take a few more cranks if left for a while.
I find it best to turn the starter over with NO CHOKE for a few turns. Stop. Wait a second, pull out the choke gently whilst pressing the starter again and she will fire up.
The Storm doesn't have the "sophistictated" autochoke like facilities of a fuel injected bike, the trouble with many of them is the jery throttle response. The TDM suffers from this a bit, and hunts in 3rd at 30mph, but nowehere near as badly as the new Fazer. My Storm, on the other hand, has a lot smoother throttle action.
Two bikes, still only four cylinders!
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storminateacup
- Posts: 715
- Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2007 3:38 pm
- Location: Maldon
The Storm relies on suction for its fuel supply as it has no tap to stop the fuel from gravitaing into the engine so when you leave it for any length of time the fuel tends to evaporate and needs the engine to turn over to create the suction to replenish the supply.This can be assisted by giving a couple of twists on the throttle before hitting the starter. Hope this helps. 
I was born with nothing and I still have most of it left.
Thanks for the replies.
Re my TDM. No, it's a 850 with good old fashioned Carbs, but I find it really good at starting.
My Storm is not quite as good a starter (as I said) over night it pretty much fires up right away, but after a week or more it takes a bit of cranking, and after a month it needs a fair bit before it fires.
I will use the Throttle before starting suggestions and see if that helps next time.
Re my TDM. No, it's a 850 with good old fashioned Carbs, but I find it really good at starting.
My Storm is not quite as good a starter (as I said) over night it pretty much fires up right away, but after a week or more it takes a bit of cranking, and after a month it needs a fair bit before it fires.
I will use the Throttle before starting suggestions and see if that helps next time.
You could fit a fuel pump as Genisis mentions, if it's really bothering you Paul 
At the home page on this forum, there is a 'how to' guide to fit a pump from a CBR600. I realise the original idea was not to aid starting if the bike has been left standing for a few weeks, but it should imo cure your issue
If you do fit one let us know the results
Chris.
PS. This is what's written:-
Installing a CBR600 Fuel Pump
Author: Roger Ditchfield of Revolution UK
VTR's can suffer from fuel starvation problems during very hard track riding conditions. Fitting a fuel pump from a CBR600 cures this problem.
Equipment Needed:
Fuel Piping, 2 x Plastic "Y" Connectors of correct diameter (Available from Demon Teaks or cheaper at any car accessory shop). General electrical connecting equipment.
Installation:
Secure pump under the seat cowl above the battery
Wire one wire to Earth on rear subframe (you may have to extend the wire to reach an existing bolt or drill and tap frame for suitable earth bolt)
Extend Second wire and splice into rear brake light wire or any other permanent power wire
Switch Ignition ON to check that the pump is pumping the correct way round ( looking at the brass face with the wires leaving the pump to the bottom, fuel from the tank enters the pump through the R/hand tube (unrestricted)- sucks, and exits the pump to the carbs from the L/hand tube (restricted) - blows. If it does not work this way round - reverse the wiring
Join the two fuel pipes from the tap with a "Y" joint and take single fuel pipe to the pump
Take single fuel pipe from the pump and using the other "Y" joint connect to each carb
Be careful to thread the pipes so they are not TRAPPED or KINKED by the seat or tank
Using this set up, when you turn the ignition ON the pump will "Tick" until you turn the engine with the starter
If you wish to avoid this, you can dismantle the fuel tap, remove the diaphram, carefully cut the centre of it out leaving the outer to act as a gasket and then re-assemble the tap
Before using the bike, carefully check that there are no fuel leaks
Disclaimer: Any modifications are undertaken entirely at the owners risk, the author of this article can be held in no way responsible.
At the home page on this forum, there is a 'how to' guide to fit a pump from a CBR600. I realise the original idea was not to aid starting if the bike has been left standing for a few weeks, but it should imo cure your issue
If you do fit one let us know the results
Chris.
PS. This is what's written:-
Installing a CBR600 Fuel Pump
Author: Roger Ditchfield of Revolution UK
VTR's can suffer from fuel starvation problems during very hard track riding conditions. Fitting a fuel pump from a CBR600 cures this problem.
Equipment Needed:
Fuel Piping, 2 x Plastic "Y" Connectors of correct diameter (Available from Demon Teaks or cheaper at any car accessory shop). General electrical connecting equipment.
Installation:
Secure pump under the seat cowl above the battery
Wire one wire to Earth on rear subframe (you may have to extend the wire to reach an existing bolt or drill and tap frame for suitable earth bolt)
Extend Second wire and splice into rear brake light wire or any other permanent power wire
Switch Ignition ON to check that the pump is pumping the correct way round ( looking at the brass face with the wires leaving the pump to the bottom, fuel from the tank enters the pump through the R/hand tube (unrestricted)- sucks, and exits the pump to the carbs from the L/hand tube (restricted) - blows. If it does not work this way round - reverse the wiring
Join the two fuel pipes from the tap with a "Y" joint and take single fuel pipe to the pump
Take single fuel pipe from the pump and using the other "Y" joint connect to each carb
Be careful to thread the pipes so they are not TRAPPED or KINKED by the seat or tank
Using this set up, when you turn the ignition ON the pump will "Tick" until you turn the engine with the starter
If you wish to avoid this, you can dismantle the fuel tap, remove the diaphram, carefully cut the centre of it out leaving the outer to act as a gasket and then re-assemble the tap
Before using the bike, carefully check that there are no fuel leaks
Disclaimer: Any modifications are undertaken entirely at the owners risk, the author of this article can be held in no way responsible.
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Fireman on a Storm
- Posts: 1223
- Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2003 5:59 pm
- Location: Romford
Thanks again for the info.
Luckily my battery seems quite good still, (it does take a strain when starting after standing a while though)
As I said, I shall try the methods suggested here and report back.
Will leave the bike sitting at least a week before I try these methods.
(Don't think I'll install a fuel pump!!!)
Luckily my battery seems quite good still, (it does take a strain when starting after standing a while though)
As I said, I shall try the methods suggested here and report back.
Will leave the bike sitting at least a week before I try these methods.
(Don't think I'll install a fuel pump!!!)
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Pete.L
- Forum Health And Safety Officer
- Posts: 7224
- Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2003 5:09 pm
- Location: Bristol
Hi Tempest
if none of the above work try fitting a hotter grade plug.
The one you want is an NGK-DPR8.
I always used the Storm all year and as soon as the colder mornings came in had starting problems. A quick change of plug sorted it and saved a lot of messing about on the drive way before setting off to work.
Pete.l
if none of the above work try fitting a hotter grade plug.
The one you want is an NGK-DPR8.
I always used the Storm all year and as soon as the colder mornings came in had starting problems. A quick change of plug sorted it and saved a lot of messing about on the drive way before setting off to work.
Pete.l
My new ride is a bit of a Howler and I love to make her Squeal
Thanks. Is than an Iridium grade plug?Pete.L wrote:Hi Tempest
if none of the above work try fitting a hotter grade plug.
The one you want is an NGK-DPR8.
I always used the Storm all year and as soon as the colder mornings came in had starting problems. A quick change of plug sorted it and saved a lot of messing about on the drive way before setting off to work.
Pete.l
What are the "Disadvantages" of fitting a hotter plug?
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Pete.L
- Forum Health And Safety Officer
- Posts: 7224
- Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2003 5:09 pm
- Location: Bristol
The heat grade of the plug is measured by the ambiant temperature of the enviroment the bike is used in. I don't have the temp charts with me at the mo but I can look them up if you like. England just falls into the Hotter Plug Catagory. The only time using the wrong temp plug will be a problem is if you were to take a run down to the south of France in 100 F wheather. A two stoke engine could melt a piston but a 4 stroke would most likly just burn out the cathode a lot quicker.
My local Honda dealer were fitting them on certain bikes (ie Firestorms) as a direct replacement/upgrade from the original the last time I was buying some bits to service the Storm.
I'm not sure if that's the irridium number I have given you but you can always check when you purchase your replacements. The heat rating is the 8 at the end of the number.
Pete.l
My local Honda dealer were fitting them on certain bikes (ie Firestorms) as a direct replacement/upgrade from the original the last time I was buying some bits to service the Storm.
I'm not sure if that's the irridium number I have given you but you can always check when you purchase your replacements. The heat rating is the 8 at the end of the number.
Pete.l
My new ride is a bit of a Howler and I love to make her Squeal