cutting out

[tattoo]

tbh griff the R/R is the only thing i haven't changed today...i'm going to try it without the k&n in tomorro but i know it's clean and not over oiled... i'm off on ebay later so i'll look for the R1 R/R...

didn't think about the sidestand switch tho..thanks

[VTRDark]

Check the sidestand cut out switch

Now that's a good call. You could bypass the switch by IIRC joining two wires, you could temporally use a Blue scotch block. Just remember the switch is disabled so make a point of putting the sidestand up. Double check before riding off Just seems weird how it only does it at high speed though.

Don't buy things and chuck money at it. You need to start testing things and go through a process of elimination. Maybe you can borrow some bits for testing purposes.

It's the cutting out only at speed which has got me thinking. It may just be worth taking the carbs off for a strip down and giving them a clean/investigate as it costs nothing accept an hours time. Well.... maybe a can of carb spray MMmm, I wonder if it's an ecu problem (just thinking aloud!) If someone got a spare they can lend you it may be worth a trying. Is it only at the exact same speed?

I'm gonna have to back over this whole thread and read it again! Lets see what Tony or someone thinks.

(:-})

[tony.mon]

When you say cutting out at 85, do you mean the engine stops producing power, and you coast to a stop?
Or is it a misfire that happens at that speed?
Does it happen every time you get to 85, or is it happening at those revs in fifth as well?
Is it when accelerating, on a steady throttle, or what?

And does it go away as you reduce speed down from 85?
Lastly, can you power through it and it runs cleanly again?

[tattoo]

hi tony

it sort of cuts out...it's like it's running out of fuel.
yes it happens everytime it gets to around 85mph when accelerating and when i throttle off it picks up again
i haven't tried pushing through it yet so i couldn't say if it runs clearly over 85

it runs fine under 85,no coughs,splutters or misfire..i've changed the coils,plugs and the fuel tap,checked all the fuel and vacuum pipes for being trapped,twisted or squashed...the only thing i can think of is the r/r breaking down

thanks.

[VTRDark]

Just been back through the thread.

new plugs were fitted a week ago and the floats are free and clean

You say the floats are nice and clean so I presume you have had the carbs stripped down and cleaned. You haven't confirmed whether you have or not.

didn't clean the K&N when i serviced it....it was blocked solid with crap..

I expect a fair bit of this got sucked into the carb intakes if it was severely full of crap.

t sort of cuts out...it's like it's running out of fuel.
yes it happens everytime it gets to around 85mph when accelerating and when i throttle off it picks up again

OK so it's not literally cutting out, bang, like a stall. It's still suggesting fuel rather tha electrical I keep going back to carbs, mains/emulsion tubes maybe. It wouldn't take much to block the little pin head sized holes in the emulsion tubes. Cut a strand of a wire brush to poke through the holes.

As I said in my previous post It may just be worth taking the carbs off for a strip down and giving them a clean/investigate as it costs nothing accept an hours time and can of carb spray. If it fixes it then if not, at least you can rule it out and you have nice clean carbs. A good job done for after it's winter resting period. Springs around the corner, you want her running sweet by then.

Carb removal
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 22#p223894

Carb strip down
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=25177

It bugging me, this one now as it''s been happening since Sept.

(:-})

[Wicky]

i've cleaned both the filter

Can you describe how and with what materials you used to service the K&N filter?

Did you wash it out, dry and reoil as K&N specify

http://www.knfilters.com/cleaning-pics.htm

http://www.knfilters.com/cleaning.htm

[VTRDark]

If it was over-oiled I don't think he would even get to any high speeds. You'd be lucky to get 100yards down the road. Anyway the problem was there before that.

That's me switching off for the night. Cyberman out.

(:-})

[tattoo]

wicky...with not using K&N's before i read the instructions twice before cleaning it with the kit and did it step by step when i did clean it..even left it 24hrs in a dry warm room to make sure it was dried out fully before oiling it.

carl...yesturday it did cut out completely and stop...as before,it was like it had run out of fuel..after 5mins stood it started again and ran fine upto around 85 then bogged down again,i did manage to catch it on the throttle tho and managed to rev it into life again..i did drain the carbs when it went into storage but with the garage messing about with the oil it'll of been run at some point but even that small amount wouldn't of gone off in that shorter time..i left my zx6 for 4months unrun and that didn't gum up..

the old trick with cars was to spray carb cleaner in while it's still running...will this do any good..i'm asking because the garage is packed up and ready to move sarf so i don't really want to be unpacking stuff...

i've got a cbr125 07 r/r off ebay for £8 while i get to the new place,i'll be changing it for a mosfet one as soon as i get settled in though

[Wicky]

If the filter's okay and not overoiled (like waterboarding the bike's breathing) and if you haven't the facilities to strip the carbs down for a thorough cleaning. Then you'll have to travel at <85mph to your new abode, and finish the job there when settled. Try the spray carb cleaner in the meantime, but if the problem persists you'll need to get at the carb's properly.

[AMCQ46]

. Cut a strand of a wire brush to poke through the holes.

(:-})

Be carefully doing this as the steel will ream the soft brass and make the jet bigger. First try a plastic bristle off a floor brush, and if that won't work take a strand of copper out of a an electrical cable ( small gauge automotive, not household T&E !)

[tattoo]

thanks for the reminder about that al..once used a steel strand on a monkey bike that had been stood for years..it didn't need much to open it up too much either so a plastic one will be used first..

wicky...can i remove the slides with the carbs still fitted...i've kept a small amount of tools...screwdrivers,8/10mm socket,ratchet and pliers out so i can dismantle some furniture thats too big to move whole...

[Wicky]

Dunno, I've never had to touch my carbs apart from balancing in 12 years /50,000 miles - but from the the write-ups I believe its easier to have the carbs off to get at them thoroughly.

[VTRDark]

the old trick with cars was to spray carb cleaner in while it's still running...will this do any good.

I've had that exact thought in the past IIRC IT was Redex I used chuck down the throat of the old Webber. It used to smoke like hell, but smelt good I don't know of any products made specifically for a bike that can be used It wound be handy.
The Yanks are fans of a product called Seafoam that they all shove throug their tanks/carbs to clean things out, but I've heard this can be quite corrosive and causes problem if abused. Talking about abused, I had a vehicle once that became addicted like a drug addicted, to Easy start. It would never start, no matter what, without out.

Be carefully doing this as the steel will ream the soft brass

Yes good point Al. I have also used s copper strand of speaker wire, but normally I just use whatever comes to hand, and that's usually a wire brush. I should really think about that more. Would it really re-shape the hole that quick. I would understand if it was be done all the time and at speed, so there's a bit of heat in the brass from friction. While on the subject, I heard that this can be one of the downsides of the Factory Pro TI needles. They can wear the port in the carb throat as it moves in and out. Better to have needle wear than carb wear, easier to diagnose and cheaper as well.

Ps slides can be be removed with carbs still attached but you would have a hell of a time getting the diaphram rubber squarely fitted back in and springs back on. Quicker to remove carbs.

(:-})

[AMCQ46]

Carl, it's the sharp edge of the wire strand where it is cut that does the damage to the softer metal rather than any rubbing friction. It is very easy to scrape a sliver of brass off and that makes the jet bigger than it was designed.

Another good trick to get rid of tough deposits in jets if the bike has been left standing for yrs is to use a blow torch and carb cleaner...(with the jet removed from the carbs) and Have a little fire . The brass expands a lot and that will help to crack off any lacquer or residue that has got stuck inside and then try to blow them out after that ( wait for them to cool as you don't want the jet number branded into your fingers )

[tattoo]

UPDATE...

warmed the bike up before taking out for a quick run and did two things...

1..accelerated steady through the gears and it bogged down at the same 85mph,i dipped the clutch and managed to keep it running,this time it backfired,popped and banged but kept running...sat for 5mins with it idling and set off again..after a couple of miles at under 85mph i...

2...turned round and headed back down the A1 and accelerated hard to see if it would go past 85 and keep running...no...it bogged down at 85mph again,this time stopping completely,after 3-5mins it restarted,idled fine and set off as usual..

if i stay under 70mph it runs great but everytime i go over it plays up and what i can only describe as..runs out of fuel...

and NO IT ISN'T RESTRICTED TO 33BHP VIRT