bike wont rev past 7 help please

[VTRDark]

And I forgot to say....Well done Virt.

And as for AP... you could have explained all that. Havent you learnt anything yet.

(:-})

[agentpineapple]

And I forgot to say....Well done Virt.

And as for AP... you could have explained all that. Havent you learnt anything yet.

(:-})

you beat me to it carlos, I was just about to type out the same thing word for word, honest I was guvnor.......

[fordstorm]

Thanks guys this is a really big help will be doing the work this weekend so will let you know how it all goes

[fordstorm]

Hi Fordstorm & welcome. We met at the bus station last weekend

As you will see this place will answer all you questions. Definitely your timing is out by 180 degrees. When you do the manual tensioners that is when you will need to reset the timing.

Follow the following link to the T & do not deviate, in your case you would be wise to strip the bike back so that both cam covers are removed to enable the correct timing to be achieved. If you need a hand I'm only down the road. Just take your time.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=28583

hey man was nice meeting you and thanks will be sure to give u a bell if all goes tits up haha but should be ok

[VTRDark]

sounds like a hamster is living in there going round on a squeeky wheel

While you at TDC on the compression stroke, check the cam sprocket alignment marks to see if the chain has jumped at all, but also check the valve clearances while your there. If there are excess clearances more than within spec then there may be some bent valves. But I'm wondering if there has been a previous failure and the previous owner/garage has tried to mask over this by adjusting the clearances rather than change any bent valves. Your description "round on a squeeky wheel" concerns me.

The large centre Allen key cap on the generator cover is a common fault with getting chewed up when removing them if overtightened/seized. These are made out of an extremely soft metal. If it does not come undone then you may have to apply some heat with a blowtorch around the circumference of the cap and use a centre punch or chisel and hammer to tap it around to remove. Don't place the punch to far out on the outer edge of the cap as it sits on a lip, but come in a few mm from the outer edge. You will then need a replacement cap. Apply some copper slip to the thread when putting the new cap back on and don't over tighten.

The cap on the generator cover will be the first thing to do before anything else.

Keep us informed to how you get on

(:-})

[darkember]

If you need a replacement cap I have one floating around in my parts bucket

[fordstorm]

If you need a replacement cap I have one floating around in my parts bucket

darkember don't suppose you can dig that cap out for me please? I have replaced ccts but have put an alankey straight through the crank cap cover and out the other side so my bike isn't going nowhere atm good news is the horrible rattle has gone

[darkember]

If you need a replacement cap I have one floating around in my parts bucket

darkember don't suppose you can dig that cap out for me please? I have replaced ccts but have put an alankey straight through the crank cap cover and out the other side so my bike isn't going nowhere atm good news is the horrible rattle has gone

Good news on the rattle. I have dug the cap out ready for you to collect. I'll be home most evenings after 8pm. Drop me a line when you think you'l be dropping by.

[fordstorm]

Ccts are done and the noisy hamster on a wheel has done one so engine is nice and quiet now cheers again darkember for the cap would of been knackered without that. Now the bike seems to ride alot better smoother power delivery and just nicer to ride also now when i hit 7000 revs the hold back/bogging down isn't half as bad as it was but stil there in bottom gears i managed to rev through it rite to the actual limiter but it was stuttering and it loses some power is this because now the chain is tighter the its keeping up with the timing a bit better mabe? Anyway are we all saying timing is still out by 180 @nd can someone explain how this is possible as i thought if timing was out by that much bike wouldn't even run and especially as well as it does.

[Serlant]

Will just add I had this problem when i replaced my engine, bike would not get past 7k/110mph. i fixed it by setting the timing again.

Edit, how I worked it out in my head was that it didn't matter which cylinder you timed up again so I just used the rear, removed the cams and turned the engine one full revolution until the RT mark lined up again and re-installed the cams. took me no longer than 45 minutes.

[VTRDark]

The thing with being out 180, the bike will look and run fine, it's not something that can be spotted visually. The pistons, valves etc can move around without bumping into each other but it's the timing between one cylinder firing and the other in relation to crank position. Some people have ridden bikes around for a few years without realising that something is not quite right. 180 degrees out can also be masked over with extreme carb jetting but that is not the right way to go.

As things have improved for you I would be tempted to leave it a while and monitor it. If 180 out it wont do it any harm. Give yourself a break and get used to manual tensioners and any new sounds the engine makes. I would also be looking at the carbs and ruling jetting out first and maybe the pulse generator, just in case either of these is giving you problems above 7000. If you cannot find any other reason then you should look at adjusting the timing.

(:-})

[sirch345]

good news is the horrible rattle has gone

That is good news I agree,

Chris.

[Gazfirestormowner]

Yeah Carl's spot on mine was 180 out and the problem was masked by rejetting
it ran really nice but when it was put n the dyno it was really underpowered so I adjusted the cam timming and put the carbs back to stock setting and she runs so much better.

If I'm right check how many turns on your crank it takes to get from tdc on the rear cylinder to tdc on the front it should be 1 1/4 tuns mine was only 1/4.

Hope u get it sorted soon

[lloydie]

Other than not revving past 7k the other give away is the exhaust sound .
Now I know why ap' sounded different on the London run .

[Gazfirestormowner]

Would I be right in saying the exhaust note is a but tinni and very poppy rather than a growl lol