engine rebuild

[VTRDark]

If you did not preset the crank so one of the pistons is at TDC on the compression stroke before removing the heads, then I would fit both cylinder heads and you can check TDC is on the compression stroke by using a compression tester or your finger in the plug hole.

Either that or take your pick, use either RT, then fit cams with lobes pointing up and in and with the RI and RE to outside. Then move onto the front cylinder. At worst the timing may be 180 degrees out, no problem with starting or valves crashing into piston or anything like that and the bike will appear to run perfectly. You will gain lower end power at the sacrifice of top end. The bike wont rev past 7000 while on the move down the road. If you find it to be 180 out then all you have to do is reverse the cam positions.

See post http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... egrees+out

When working with timing always turn the crank over by hand a few turns first to make sure everything spins freely before hitting the start button.

(:-})

[macin]

thank You cybercarl, so it is 50:50 that i will do it right by first time

if i will get it by first time i will play lottery on sunday ;)

and i remember to do some turns by hands, i really like my valves in good shape

[VTRDark]

Yes it's a 50/50 chance. The timing will look right and the bike will run fine with no damage if 180 out. You will only notice it 180 out while riding down the road when you try to get past 7000rpm as it will behave like a limiter and the needle will struggle to get past. It will rev past fine giving the bike a rev at standstill. But like I said stick a finger in the plughole and you feel when it's on compression.

(:-})

[macin]

i think i do my homework

first thing - first RT mark (RT is always TDC for rear)

good line i think ;)



lobes



RE sprocket



RI sprocket



then 1 1/4 anticlockward and go to FT



i am little concerned, my FE and FI are not perfect, maybe it is because FT is exactly at point, little later would be perfect for cams ... see Yourself





oh and i forgot lobes of front cylinder, but lobes are outwards and up, as in manual and in topic of CCT

and engine in engine bay

damn heavy, my 2 hands were stronger few years ago ...

[VTRDark]

I'm looking forward to seeing this finished as it's a bit different. Did you make the cage yourself?

All your timing marks appear to be good. As for the front cams being a little off, this is nothing to worry about really as it looks to be less than 1/2 a tooth. It could be as you say and that the FT line does not quite line up spot on at the crank. Or it could be a little Camchain stretch in which case is perfectly normal for them to not quite line up as the sprockets are non adjustable.

If you wished to do so you could have a little play with repositioning the cams, move them 1 tooth on the chain but you may find it still wont quite line exact and be the opposite of what you have now as it appears to be less than a tooth. I wouldn't worry about it as it's such a small amount.

(:-})

[macin]

If you wished to do so you could have a little play with repositioning the cams, move them 1 tooth on the chain but you may find it still wont quite line exact and be the opposite of what you have now as it appears to be less than a tooth. I wouldn't worry about it as it's such a small amount.

(:-})

exactly, You are right, i played a little and if i move them 1 tooth it is worst than now, i think this is the best position

and thank You for being interested, cage is done by myself, but project was bought from http://www.edge.au.com/The_Barracuda

if You have any donor engine, the game is really worth of play, series sprocket are 15~17 to 43, i have 13:65, max speed is low (130 km/h) but acceleration on every surface is quite good
and in Your country You can still register it for public roads

check some of my youtube video if You are boring ;)

[VTRDark]

The problem is you can move one tooth in either direction but you need a half tooth to be spot on. Obviously it's not possible to stop at a half tooth as it falls in the middle of the link, so you end up choosing the best out of the two options. Hope that makes sense!

The funny thing is though, as a side affect it may even be an improvement for you because the Lobe Separation Angle will have moved a little. A kind of crude adjustable sprocket.

The Honda timing marks are not that precise so there is room for some error. Honda play on the safe side! If you want precision timing then you need adjustable sprockets, dial gauge and a degree wheel.

On a standard engine with standard pistons, a non skimmed/decked head etc. If you was to have a CCT failure and the Camchain slipped there is roughly 3 Camchain links before the valves crash into the piston crown. So there is room to to play with, though rather crudely.

Just need to check! Have you done all your valve clearances?

(:-})

[macin]

Yes, valve clearances were done as in manual

still waiting for gasoline tank to be finished, then i will try to start it up, i am little hm, anxious about it, but it is just an engine, it will work ;)

volvo have something like that (variable valve timing wheel), bmw (vanos), but less equipment, more reliability, manual cct will save me from skipping teeth i hope

picture from day 2

[VTRDark]

i am little hm, anxious about it

That's perfectly normal. As a precaution make sure you turn the engine over by hand at the crank a few times to make sure everything clears and nothing is catching.

Good yo hear you have MCCT's, I was just using CCT's as an example. It looks very interesting inside the cage. What's that on top of the air filter or is the way the picture has been taken and in the background.

(:-})

[macin]

it is an air cyclone filter, all of dirt and water gets there, so regular air filter in airbox is in good condition



series / regular hole in airbox is blocked, i have made a hole on the top of airbox (90 mm diameter) and pluged in this cyclone filter, oh and this white stripes are for water, to be spattered by them and don't get into filter

[macin]

i have done some exhaust work





my first tig welding EVER

EX is 2:2, not 2:1:2, hope it won't change antyhing, now i am waiting for saturday, and i will try to run it, do some more revs of crank by hands, checkt it again, then check it double againt that there is no collision and ... we will see

if engine will be alive, after that i need to find very good magician to set up my carbs (versus modified air filter versus modifief exhaust), so i am waiting for saturday, when job will be done, sunday will be testing day

uhmm there is too much "we will see" ...

[VTRDark]

When I saw that exhaust, carb tuning was the first thing I thought off too. Should be interesting, Let us know what your jetting ends up being once done. My worry is that if the timing is 180 out, then it may not be as noticeable and get missed as it can be masked over with carb tuning.

I'm no expert but that welding looks very good for your first attempt.

(:-})

[macin]

it is ALIVE, there was no problem with running it, i just mixed plugs from neutral / oil with other black plug but now it is ok

i orderer series airbox and on saturday my friend will set up carbs

one thing bother me, sometimes rear exhaust whistle, ping, i mean rear cylinder, we will see what is going on on saturday, i think i choose right TDC, but not 100% sure for now, after ride i will be sure

About electrical problems, my battery is dead, was 12V 12 Ah, i know alternator is 280W so after calculating it alternator is 23.333 Amps, can i change my battery do 12V 18Ah ? problem is i have more lights (2 x front, 2 x rear and 2 x halogen on roof, will my alternator charge battery 18Ah or i need to stay with 12V 12Ah ?

I will be very appreciated for any advice

[VTRDark]

can i change my battery do 12V 18Ah ?

I don't see why not as long as it's 12v. Some folk on here run a slightly higher amperage battery as they have accessories.

(:-})

[macin]

Hi there

so engine was working perfectly, cybercarl i don't know how to thank You, so i figured out something

If You will be in Poland, anytime, from now to the future, i will be delighted to give You a ride

23 march we had a first competition this year, and surprise was that I won !



and of course i got some problems, coolant is missing, there is a pressure in cooling system on 6000-7000 rpm and this pressure get the coolant out from radiator

so i need to check pressure on each cylinder, and then need to check header, gasker, block ... maybe i assemble it wrong way

BUT !!

Power after doing valves repair and compresion is better than ever, this is most important