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Rob,
With something as nice as that bell mouth to look at, it's a shame you can't see it when the bike is back together

sirch345 wrote:Rob,
With something as nice as that bell mouth to look at, it's a shame you can't see it when the bike is back together

indeed, they'd look fab anodised blue.....

rob... wrote:

sirch345 wrote:Rob,
With something as nice as that bell mouth to look at, it's a shame you can't see it when the bike is back together

indeed, they'd look fab anodised blue.....

or red....mmmmm

here's my R1 front end. it's having a stem swap as we speak, then i'll redo the lockstops.





i wonder how much aggro it'd be to put a blue spot caliper on the back, so they all match?????

found this'n on the superhawk forum, using an R6 front end.

you need to have a word with the person who choose the blue and purple anodised top nut and adjusters........

indeed!! luckily i'm not using that stem/top nut....

nothing beats gold forks, next time i get mine serviced i might get the done...........mmmm
any idea how much of a change in steering head angle you will have using those forks mate?
or is it a case of fingers crossed?

from top surface of top yoke to spindle centre is near enough the same, (within a few mil). but the R1 legs don't stick out above the top yoke, so i'll need risers/low bars.

i had the same problem with the cbr954 forks i fitted, its not cheap to buy veribars/helibars the cheapest option i found was from china/hong kong about £80 qualitys not bad.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-CN ... 2314fa1cce

started front end swap...



gets dark early!!!!!


std cans going back on so i can sell the ART race cans, and ride it over to my mates, who will build the one off 2:1 big bore stainless pipe.

i know the storm can wheelie but just a thought you might want to put the forks and wheel on before you ride it over to your mate

postie bought the exhaust bits today, 2 1/2" stainless bends an a 2 1/2" big bore stubby carbon can.
to be put on when the FCR 41's, lightened flywheel, manual tensioners and stick coils go on. i'll probably take 15 thou off the heads at a later date, but for now that's the extent of the engine work.
i'll cut the downpipes about where the red line is, cut a 4" bit of the 2 1/2" stainless, squash one end slightly, so it fits nicely to the original pipe then sleeve the rest on.

Those look nice Rob, I am sure your neighbours will appreciate their windows rattling!!!!

Kev L wrote:Those look nice Rob, I am sure your neighbours will appreciate their windows rattling!!!!

in the 2nd picture you can see the pipes threatening a local window already