Congratulations on the win, that's thanks enough for me. Coolant leaking is probably a leaky hose somewhere. By all means do a compression and it will be interesting to see where it's at, but there would have to be something seriously wrong to be the block/head ie warped surface or blown gasket. So I doubt it's that as you have good power. I would start with the coolant hoses and make sure they are all secure. Don't forget the little ones from the thermostat housing as these are tricky and leaks often get missed there.
cybercarl wrote:Only if your a 6ft Blonde super modal.
If I only could be ;)
Thank You
there is no leak outside the engine, only by radiator cap, cap is set to 1.1 bar
now i am wondering, maybe it is because of a cap, i have changed radiator after painting buggy, need to check bar on it ... so we need to wait for saturday to check it
i checked compression in both cylinders, i was thinking that gasket was broken so i just wanted to know which cylinder should i disassembly, so i checked compression and it is 8.5 bar on both ... seems to be ok, but after i start engine and check in radiator - coolant got bubbles
i don't know what is going on, block is cracked ? header ? tommorow morning i am going to garage ...
Sorry to hear that. What's going on there. Without reading back through the thread, is it only the cylinder heads that have been rebuilt or have you had the engine cases apart. Did you check the pistons, rings and cylinder walls while the heads where off. Where both surfaces (block and heads) clean and flush before fitting new head gaskets. Any water in the oil? Just trying to figure out where it's at. Lets hope the garage can shed some light on it/understand what's wrong.
i tightened headers to 55 Nm by dynamometric key, maybe it is broken, or maybe i did something wrong ... but next time i will tighten headers by normal key
old gaskets are crap i think, now i is time again for milling headers, front one is crooked more, but i want to sleep well so it has to be done
what do You think, can i use fuel pump from honda vfr 750 ?
this is my ... diagram
the reason why i want to use fuel pump, is because when i turn right for a long time, 5-6 seconds, fuel from fuel line is not going down by gravity, it is stopped and engine is turning off because of lacking fuel, there is no problem when i turn left
fuel pump make 6 bar i think, after pump i will make back line to tank to prevent overloading carbs, what do You guys think about it ?
Love the video, thanks for posting. Are you allowed to drive that out on the public roads over there then. Looks to me in the video your driving out of flats onto a public road Oh and get some louder exhausts That air fitter to me looks like it's a part of a Dyson Hoover, some kind of cyclone. I'm sure I could see bits of fluff spinning around inside it
That's not good You should be getting loads more than that. I don't understand why the cyclone filter accept to help collect the dust particles. There's a lot of dust when your on track! Have you tried a standard filter box on the buggy and what sort of jetting are you running in the carbs with that cyclone filter. What size jets? These engines and carbs really don't like the filter being messed with and are very sensitive to changes. Talking about carbs are still using the standard CV carbs? I guess things are not going to work the same as if you had the engine in a motorcycle as it's designed for so it's going to be experimental and a lot of trial and error, but you should be able to get it running well eventually. Out of curiosity what weight is the buggy?
It may be worth you emailing the BBC Top Gear production team and asking a few questions with regards to any running issues they had and what they done to resolve them.
this weekend is a holliday weekend so i will do some more tests
but first thing explanation:
top speed is set by sprockets to 140 km/h, front sprocket (on engine) 13T, rear sprocket (on wheels) 65T, rear tire is 25 " diameter so this
6th gear on gearbox gives ratio 0.961 rpm, ratio after sprocket is 5810 rpm, so on 9000 rpm on engine i got 139 km/h precisely
You are right in every word about airbox and air filter, it is very sensitive to mess up there, but i will try this weekend to ride without cyclone, just regular airbox
in Airbox i got KN oiled air filter, stopping dust very good, but cleaning it need a time, 10 minutes on field and i need to clean it, especially when someone is before me, with cyclone i don't have problems like that, problem is with engine work, so i will do test as You recommend me
carbs are series, same as needles, standard CV carbs
fuel mixture screw 2 3/4 turn out, then 1000 rpm, then highest rpm, then fron 1 turn out and 1 1/4 turn out for rear
weight is 450 kg, and i need more acceleration than speed, next movie and information from tests on sunday / monday i hope
series airbox without cyclone filter is working much more better than modified, so You were right cybercarl
and i have a problem, well, pressure in cooling system, headers are ok, just there is no plain on cylinder block, and i don't know what to do now
machining block (+ pistons, bearings, gaskets etc) will cost more than used engine, but noone will be 100% sure that used engine is in good condition :S
repair cost will be around same price as for used engine ... what would You do guys ?