Reculator/Rectifier

[E.Marquez]

Coils/stator/donut...This makes the electrickery, the flywheel spins inside this & creates a curent,

Mmmmmmm, donuts....... wait what were talking about?

"this is then carried to the R/R where it's converted by more electrickery from DC to AC which then charges the battery..."

Well sort ah.... Its actually AC produced at the stator / flywheel that goes to the Rectifier to be converted to DC and regulated by the regulator to the proper charging voltage

[tony.mon]

Aren't the standard ones half wave rectifiers, where the unwanted "negative" part of the sine wave is converted to heat?

There my technical knowledge runs out, are the MOSFET ones actually full wave rectifiers? Do they somehow convert negative parts to positive ones?

If so, you'd end up with twice the rr output Amps for the same stator output, at the same DC voltage.
So you could use a smaller and less resistive stator and have the same output....

Anyone understand this stuff and can explain it in easy short words?

I'm off to Google it and become an expert.https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&sourc ... 9540047618

[felix barrao]

There are not simple rectifiers.

The main problem here is to keep the DC voltage within limits. ( about 14V).
The AC generator increases the voltage with the rpm. They are low KV ( revs per volt) generators , to assure that at idle they are producing enough voltage to keep the output DC voltage to 14V. The problem is that at high rpm the AC voltage increases to more than 100V, and the DC output have to be limited to 14. The only way to do that is to switch on and off ( at high frequency ) the dc voltage to obtain the 14 desired volts.( PWM control).


We tried in the past to use one of this units as a regulator for the generator of an Unmanned airplane, and we had to refuse to use it because there was a generator overheat at low loads. We had to design our own system, to cope our needs, and it´s is a very hard work, and not an easy task.
This sindengen units are complex and very robust units.

I have changed this afternoon the regulator in my VTR, ( yes, the one that I used for the experiments) and works perfect. Here some pictures

[MacV2]

Coils/stator/donut...This makes the electrickery, the flywheel spins inside this & creates a curent,

Mmmmmmm, donuts....... wait what were talking about?

"this is then carried to the R/R where it's converted by more electrickery from DC to AC which then charges the battery..."

Well sort ah.... Its actually AC produced at the stator / flywheel that goes to the Rectifier to be converted to DC and regulated by the regulator to the proper charging voltage

Yeah OK, I was never a big fan of AC/DC anyway...

I still maintain it's the Amp Fairies or is it the Ohm Trolls ? Bloody Whitchcraft Electrickery I tell ye!...

[E.Marquez]

I still maintain it's the Amp Fairies or is it the Ohm Trolls ? Bloody Whitchcraft Electrickery I tell ye!...

Oh it is Whitchcraft , how they get all that smoke in there is beyond me. I just know how to keep it in the wires and thingambobs

[sirch345]

Did someone mentioned doughnuts, yum yum



Chris.

[E.Marquez]

Did someone mentioned doughnuts, yum yum



Chris.

Thanks, now Im hungry for a crap breakfasts before going into the shop....I BLAME YOU....

[sirch345]

Did someone mentioned doughnuts, yum yum



Chris.

Thanks, now Im hungry for a crap breakfasts before going into the shop....I BLAME YOU....

it wasn't me who mentioned doughnuts

Why is it things that are no good for you taste so yummy

Chris.

[Geeman]

Well thats the old type which are prone to failure.

If its done that to your battery it's a sign of over charging.

It's good that you have no burning in the block so that should be good to go...

I'd deff change that R/R & ovbiously you need a new battery...

The way to tell if it's working/charging corectly is to put a meter on it...
Hey up. Rectifier arrived today new battery yesterday.
With the engine running you should get a reading of 13.5 to 14.5v for a healthy one...

I've got a finned one plug & play for sale at the moment... viewtopic.php?f=38&t=42742#p467303

£10 + postage...

Also have a good Stator which I still thing it would be worth checking on yours...

Hey up...battery arrived yesterday...rectifier today. All back together. Started up and ran at a constant 14 volts. The new rectifier does get quite warm...is that normal. Just want to say thank you to you and everyone for all your help and advice. Problem is i bust the thread on my right hand mirror doing something else. Has anybody got one or a decent pair...cheers again all...

[MacV2]

They do get hot/warm it's normal thats why the Mossfet type are a better upgrade they run cooler...

Another fix is to run an earth direrct to the Batt - terminal...

[Geeman]

Hi...how does work...disconnect earth from rectifier and run straight to battery. Thinking of fitting a small volt/charging gauge to keep my eye on it...what do you think...cheers again.

[felix barrao]

I have gauges installed, i like to check time to time.
Anyway, with new ( and upgraded) regulator and new battery you shouldn't´have problems in some time..

At starting I like to check that the regulator is working, and oil pressure is ok, and tyre pressure is within limits..
I installed gauges in the transalp some years ago, and in the vtr I missed them..

[MacV2]

Hi...how does work...disconnect earth from rectifier and run straight to battery. Thinking of fitting a small volt/charging gauge to keep my eye on it...what do you think...cheers again.

No Splice in to the earth in the main loom, about 3 or 4 inches back from the R/R, run that direct to batt neg terminal...

It's a Popkat trick, I'm sure he'l be along shortly to explain more...

[E.Marquez]

Hi...how does work...disconnect earth from rectifier and run straight to battery. Thinking of fitting a small volt/charging gauge to keep my eye on it...what do you think...cheers again.

Actually do both the earth and charge wire.
at the RR plug, snip the red and green wire about 20~30 mm from the connector, add wire extending them to the battery. Put a ring terminal on the green (earth) wire and connect directly to the battery.
On the red wire splice in a sealed ATO fuse holder and then a ring terminal and connect it to the battery or better add two more ring terminals and use a Marine rated 25 amp circuit breaker.
The VTR has a 21 amp max output from the stator so use a 25 amp fuse if going the fuse route (i don't use fuses any more, no longer offer that option, the breakers are a better option in my opinion). Wiring the RR output directly to the battery, bypassing the old wiring will improve charge voltage.


That said........ dont do it.....LOL, if your going to spend the time and materials, add a FH012 or FH020 MOSFET RR and the correct connectors which are a sealed type by Furukawa

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