ignition coil

[ozzie9962]

could the ignition coil make my bike start missing at 4000 revs and how do you check them cheers john.

[Twinpotter]

I had a similar problem with coils (in that testing the coils primary and secondary circuit resistances does not always indicate a fault) and Pete (L) nailed it.

If it helps;
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 8&start=15
(My second post on this page)

Ensuring that the carbs are balanced and the bike well serviced (good filters, plugs, battery etc), I suggest swapping the coil obtained from a breaker for maybe a tenner or so.

Hope it helps.

[Pete.L]

Okay,
bit confused now. originally you said it was running rich after a dyno run check, now you think it is miss firing above 4 k.
Give us a story on what's happened ,history, checks so far and results. OH! AND TRY TO KEEP IT ALL ON ONE POST (I'm easily confused when it's all over the place :wink2 )
And we'll see if we can work out a plan of action.

Pete.l

[sirch345]

OH! AND TRY TO KEEP IT ALL ON ONE POST (I'm easily confused when it's all over the place :wink2 )

Pete.l

Me too As Pete says it's esasier to read through all you've done and whats happening/or not happpening in one thread. Also if someone else has the same problem later on they can read it much easier too.

So as Pete said:-
Quote
Give us a story on what's happened ,history, checks so far and results.

Then we will do our best to help

Chris.

[ozzie9962]

right here we go............
when i got the bike i was told that it was misfiring at 7000 revs so thinkin i knew what i was doing i replaced the plugs, the air filter, put the standard cans back on and it was still missing. So i then had it to the dyno and they told me it was only showing 70bhp and started missing at 4000revs but they couldnt pinpoint what it was. I have checked the vacuum hoses, made sure the pipes on the petrol tank are on the right way round, if i start the bike from cold it will not start if i pull the choke out. If i shove it back in it starts but i have to apply a bit of revs so i'm now going to look at the SE valve as i'm wondering if the choke could be sticking. I will try that and let you know.
Cheers John

[cupasoop]

Do you know the previous owner and have you any idea if they had any work carried out on the bike?

If the previous owner tried to change the cct's and fcuked up the timing by 180 degrees that might explain why it runs at low revs but doesnt higher up.

[ozzie9962]

the cct's have been changed before i got it. How do i check if the timing is out 180 degrees? Also the trumpets in the top of the air filter were the wrong way round. I have put them right.
Cheers John

[sirch345]

It's the same principle as in this link but without actually removing the CCT's:-
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326

but after setting the engine up as in the above link you'll also need to remove the front cam cover to check that the cam wheel marks (FI and FE) are lined up with the cylinder head. If the timing is 180 degrees out the cam lobes will be facing the wrong way. They should be facing away from each other on the front cylinder,

Chris.

[ozzie9962]

if it is out how do i reset it correct

[sirch345]

I'll post here rather than to your pm, as it may help others in the future.

The first thing you'll need to do is to remove the centre cap on alternator cover (lefthand side of bike, clutch lever side) and the inspection cap next to it.
Following my procedure in this link http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326 remove petrol tank, airbox etc etc. You will also need to remove the carbs and heat shield, you don't need to remove the coolant pipe from the carbs, as if you're patient and careful you can move the carbs around enough to remove the plastic shield. I suggest taking a few photo's before removing the throttle cables from the carbs and of the plastic shield in case you forget how it all fits back together. You need to pull the plug out from the TPS (throttle position sensor) remove the carb cables (slacken off first) and just slacken off the top hose clips on both of the rubber inlet manifold connectors. Once you've done all that you should then be able to wiggle the carbs free.

Next remove both cam covers. (I can't remember now if you need to unbolt the oil cooler or not, but you will be able to see if you do when you come to remove the front cam cover)

Using a socket set turn the engine over ANTI-CLOCKWISE (this will be much easier with the spark plugs removed) and line up the 'FT' mark with the mark on the alternator cover, at this point the cam sprocket marks (FE and FI) for the front cylinder should be level with the top of the cylinder head and facing away from each other. The cam lobes should also be facing away from each other If they are not then turn the engine over ANTI-CLOCKWISE one complete turn (360 degrees) until the 'FT' mark is re-aligned, they will now be facing away from each other

Now that the front cylinder is set correctly, turn the engine over by hand ANTI-CLOCKWISE 270 degrees (three quarters of a turn) then line up the 'RT' mark with the mark on the alternator cover, at this point the cam sprocket marks (RE and RI) on the rear cylinder should be level with the top of the cylinder head (they may not be exactly, as with cam chain stretch they can be a little out) and the cam lobes facing towards each other. If they are not facing towards each other then the valve timing is 180 degrees out

Do that first and get back to us,

Chris.

[Pete.L]

How's it going Os?
Had a chance to do any further checks yet?

Pete.l

[sedz1974]

hi im having the same problem ive removed both cam covers and set the front timing correctly and everything lines up as in your post but when i line up the rt mark after turning crankshaft 270 degrees the cam loabs are not faceing each other but are faceing down towards the valves please can you advise me on how to adjust the cams.

[benny hedges]

If they are not facing towards each other then the valve timing is 180 degrees out

haven't had to do this myself on the storm, but is it easy enough to get at the cam gear bolts?
couldn't you just set the offending cylinder to top dead then undo the cam gear bolts and spin engine through 180, then bolt it back up with the bolts in the opposite holes?

or is it easier to just take out the cct and jog the chain round?
i'd be interested to know which method you prefer

[tony.mon]

The second pair of cam lobes should either be pointing in towards the centre or pointing outwards, but there's no way they should be pointing in a downwards direction, i.e. compressing the valves.

Check that you have followed the instructions EXACTLY before trying to adjust the cams.

But to answer your question, you need to place the engine in the correct position for the second cylinder, then unbolt the CCT for that cylinder, having locked it off first or used a small screwdriver to unscrew the spring pressure, then the cam chain for that cylinder should be slack enough for you to remove the cams for the cylinder that needs to be adjusted.

Then re-install the cams so that they are facing in the correct direction and the lines on the cam sprockets lined up with the cylinder head.

You should not need to unbolt the cam sprockets from the cams.

Then re-fit the CCT and turn the engine over gently several times anti-clockwise by hand to make sure that there is no miscalculation.

If , and only if, you're sure you have it right, reassemble and start the engine.