full clutch basket swap

[AMCQ46]

As part of my investigation into the Clutch grab, and excessive vibration problems, I plan to do a full swap of clutches from my spare engine to the #1 bike. I plan to swap all the components, Plates, basket, springs, actuation pushrod end etc from one engine to the other.

Got my clutch gasket on order, but is there anything else I need to watch out for when removing and refitting the basket as well as the plates?

[Wicky]

If you haven't got a clutch holding tool then either Tony M in Kent has mine or get it from eblag

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Clutch- ... 517wt_1079

Also there's a retaining lock nut (90231-MS2-610) £3.45 that needs heavy torquing and is best replaced with a new one, as IIRC it's undone/retained by some subtle chiselling.

Also Aerosol gasket remover comes in handy removing the old remains of gasket, and when putting it all back together Liquid Gasket latest type Yamabond Hugh bottle http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 024wt_1079

[AMCQ46]

Wicky,
Thanks for those tips. I looked at those clutch holders, but went of a universal system [the ones that look like mutant mole grips] as they work on clutches, generators and sprockets.

Hadnt thought about the center nut, but you are correct, it is "bruised" into a groove in the shaft to stop it comming undone.

Did you have to lever the nut back straight before you undo, or just unscrew it and let the shaft force the material back out?

[Wicky]

I'm sure the lock nut needed attention from a blunt screwdriver and hammer before it could be removed - using a suitable 25mm (odd as the socket I had to get for the job has '30' on it) ½" socket + long breaker bar (and an xtra length of pipe for leverage). Tony M very kindly came up from Kent to do a clutch basket transplant and having 4 pairs of hands and 1½ brains made it much easier.

[sirch345]

Good luck with this AMcQ, it'll be interesting to see if it makes any difference.

Recently I noticed my bikes clutch seemed not to be operating as it usually does when accelerating hard up through the gears. It almost seemed like a delayed reaction when releasing the lever, noticeable close to the end of it's travel (furthest away from the handlebar). After talking about this to a couple of friends about this, we did wonder if the clutch slave cylinder was sticking a little. I'm not sure if this is the same thing as the "clutch grab" you and some other say they experience

One thing I did notice was how the level of the clutch fluid sits because I have my clutch lever/master cylinder angled down more than it was when I got the bike to suit me. I did wonder if any air could have got into the system because of that.

Chris.

[tony.mon]

Tony M very kindly came up from Kent to do a clutch basket transplant and having 4 pairs of hands and 1½ brains made it much easier.

Just checked, I counted my hands, and there's just two.

I know what you meant, though!

Back to the clutch transplant, I use a small electrical terminal screwdriver to open the tapped-in section out again.
I suspect that it would just push out if you apply enough force to the nut anyway.
You can re-use the nut, if you're careful, as it's bloody tight anyway, as long as the bit you pushed back out of the security groove stays intact.
Although they're only £11-15.

Please don't use the Haynes method of jamming a bit of "stout rag" into the primary gears; this pushes them apart and in my opinion will damage the bearings.

Happy to send up the locking tool; previous to Wicky lending me his specialist tool I made one from bolting some clutch plates together, friction and plain plates, to lock it, but the specialist one is easier to brace against something solid, to brace the clutch outer and inner when applying the amount of force on a breaker bar on the centre nut.

[Miztaziggy]

Good luck mate

The centre nut will be tighter than anything

I remember trying to do it on my R1, I had a 2ft long bar and the back wheel locked in place and could not for the life of me shift that nut. Had to take it in to a place with a hydraulic thingy to do it with.

[tony.mon]

Agreed, you won't hold it still using the rear brake or locking the wheel.
Unless possibly with a full-pressure rattle gun.
The little electric ones probably won't do it.

And it'll have to be at least a 1/2 drive socket set.

[AMCQ46]

Yes a bit worrided about getting the nut undone on a loose engine, don't want that jumping off the workmate when I am swinging round on a 3ft bar.

Will try the rattle gun but not sure if my litle compressor wil have enough air flow to do the job. Otherwise it is the scaffold pole.

Thinking that I will need to put a bar through the swing arm pivot and use that to lock the clutch tool from turning.

[tony.mon]

You'll probably be able to brace the clutch holding tool against the footrest hanger.

[AMCQ46]

Is the damping gear on the crankshaft supposed to have this bolt through it locking it to the steel gear, or is it supposed to be activly spring loaded?





This is on my spare engine, and I don't know if the clutch has been out before. In the Haynes pictures it is not good enough to see, but I expected the gear to be under spring tension, but when I removed the clutch basket and secondary gear, there was no movement as that bolt is locking them together.

[AMCQ46]

And a good tip for slackening the big nut......

I had the holding tool and the long socket bar about 4" apart at the end of their handles, and used a ratchet strap to pull them together. Nut came undone, and no risk of the engine falling off the workbench

Very pleased if I say so my self

[Wicky]

Odd as that bolt wasn't in mine when I had the cover off (for the first time since it was made AFAIK)

[AMCQ46]

Thanks wicky, that helps confirm what I suspected. Bolt looked rusty so didn't think it was supposed to be there, but looked like it was fitted to stop the damping gear springing apart when the secondary gear is removed.

[Stormin Ben]

Recently I noticed my bikes clutch seemed not to be operating as it usually does when accelerating hard up through the gears. It almost seemed like a delayed reaction when releasing the lever, noticeable close to the end of it's travel (furthest away from the handlebar).
Chris.

Two thoughts on this Chris
1. The pushrod that runs through the engine from the slave cylinder through to the clutch is directly in line with the chain. Chain lube gets flung off onto it
Try removing it and giving it a good clean in paraffin or similar

2. Mine was quite grabby on reasonably brisk launches. I fitted heavier springs and while it was apart I set to the clutch basket with a fine file.
Over time the plates can wear a notch / indent in the face. This then causes the plates to stick a little bit rather than engage freely.
Filing this completely cured the problem