this is where I've got to
3in1 penetrating oil - loads
filed flat edges
scraped corrosion visible with a blade
mole grips as tight as i can get
blow torch
club hammer thwack
repeat all day
eff all movement
Think I might wheel it up the road to a mate who may have an extractor or experience of drilling - lost for ideas now and the other one is in worse nick
bloody studs - soaking, scrapinfiling, heating, whacking and
- BigVeeGrin
- Posts: 2516
- Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2010 1:41 pm
- Location: Glasgow
Re: bloody studs - soaking, scrapinfiling, heating, whacking
Try and heat the ally more than the stud, or freeze spray on the stud?
No I can't spell.
- Miztaziggy
- Posts: 2451
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Tadcaster
bloody studs - soaking, scrapinfiling, heating, whacking and
Do what I did mate, was really easy and took 30 mins max. Only need to cut 2-3mm of that ally collar off
Re: bloody studs - soaking, scrapinfiling, heating, whacking
If you need to borrow a Dremel to follow Ziggy's method I have one. Just let me know.
Carpe diem, quam minimum credula postero
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
Re: bloody studs - soaking, scrapinfiling, heating, whacking
I've welded a flat mild steel bar onto studs like that before, (about 300mm long, 25mm X 6mm) by drilling a hole in it first so it goes over the stud. But disconnect battery and alternator first. I was then able to break the joint, cut the bar off and remove the now lose stud,
- Miztaziggy
- Posts: 2451
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Tadcaster
bloody studs - soaking, scrapinfiling, heating, whacking and
Yeah borrow one and try it, seriously easy and worked a treat. You can't even really tell it's been done once you're finished.
Only thing is to be careful you don't grind the stud itself, when it sparks, stop and move the grinding wheel round a bit.
Only thing is to be careful you don't grind the stud itself, when it sparks, stop and move the grinding wheel round a bit.
Last edited by Miztaziggy on Sun Oct 23, 2011 7:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- BigVeeGrin
- Posts: 2516
- Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2010 1:41 pm
- Location: Glasgow
Re: bloody studs - soaking, scrapinfiling, heating, whacking
I've got your thread bookmarked and burnt into my memory thanks for the offer Kev - I'll have another go tomorrow and see what the bloke up the road can do, or not!Miztaziggy wrote:Yeah borrow one and try it, seriously easy and worked a treat. You can't even really tell it's been done once you're finished.
Only thing is to be careful you don't gring the stud itself, when it sparks, stop and move the grinding wheel round a bit.
Re: bloody studs - soaking, scrapinfiling, heating, whacking
OK fella, I am away for a couple of days from tomorrow afternoon so if it turns out you need it I am around from Wednesday evening.
Carpe diem, quam minimum credula postero
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
- Miztaziggy
- Posts: 2451
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Tadcaster
bloody studs - soaking, scrapinfiling, heating, whacking and
Fair enough mate, but be careful if he drills it, need to make sure it is drilled dead straight and that is hard to do while under the bike.
Re: bloody studs - soaking, scrapinfiling, heating, whacking
No.... don't use one of those extractors, it'll snap and you'll be left with a bigger mess to sort out.
Now if it was me, I'd cut it flat and then drill and tap a new hole. That's what I ended up doing on the crank case of mine, when one of the water pump bolts snapped off. After hours trying to remove the remains with one of those left handed extractors, the stud didn't budge. However, the hole was getting more and more ragged and bigger across its diameter. After so long I called it a day and drilled and tapped... solved, but it wasn't a nice job. Outside the engine for an exhaust stud? Piece of cake
Now if it was me, I'd cut it flat and then drill and tap a new hole. That's what I ended up doing on the crank case of mine, when one of the water pump bolts snapped off. After hours trying to remove the remains with one of those left handed extractors, the stud didn't budge. However, the hole was getting more and more ragged and bigger across its diameter. After so long I called it a day and drilled and tapped... solved, but it wasn't a nice job. Outside the engine for an exhaust stud? Piece of cake