Bazza CCT fitting question.

[thetroublemaker]

OK, I have seen another thread about fitting these and just want to check on the correct way to set the tension of the manual CCT's.

Looking at the Sirch guide, on step 10 -

"Unscrew the small bolt in the end of the rear CCT and remove it along with the alloy sealing washer. Next turn the screw head inside the CCT clockwise two full turns, lock it off in position using a locking key. The Haynes Workshop Manual shows you how to make a simple locking key. Tape the key in place once you've locked the tensioner off, as you don't want the key jumping out. Next undo and remove the CCT. If you are using this guide to fit manual CCT's you can lock the tensioner in position without retracting it first (using a locking key), to give you a measurement that can be transfer to the manual CCT before fitting it. "

I take this to mean that after I set the valves to TDC, I then lock the stock tensioners without turning them clockwise, using a locking key, then remove. Then I set the manual CCT's to the same length between end of stopper and base of CCT body, lock up in place and refit to the bike.

Therefore there is no need to adjust with a running engine etc and i should automatically be correctly tensioned to the current requirements of the chain itself.

Would this be accurate?

[AMCQ46]

the proceedure you identified will get you 90% correct position for your manuals, but as you are taking the autos out of a cold engine that might equate to the manuals being just a bit to tight once the engine is hot

I would still suggest that you back off by 1/4 turn from that setting point to account for the hot engine condition, and as you have to have the back cam cover off to get TDC, you shoud also check the chain slack [about 7mm mid way between the cams] and also recheck for rattles on a running engine to be sure you got the front correct.

[Bal]

I just had Bazza's fitted at the weekend by Tony.mon and he said there wasnt any need to use the locking key approach, he just pulled the old ones out and popped the manuals in, of course this doesnt guarentee they are at the perfect lengh but only the rear needed a very small tightning when she warmed up, It was a 2 second job while it was running. Makes me very confident to change the back one for one of Trays now I have them.

Alan

[leevtr]

Right, I aint no mechanic, but as well as following Sirch's guide ( which was the nuts ) I also added my own method into the equation.
When TDC reached, cam lobes pointed in right direction, I removed oe cct. Then inserted manual, and tightened ( with fingers, no tools ) untill couldnt turn any more. Remove camchain guide, chain as tight as a drum. Then, count how many times I have to turn OUT manual CCT to get 7-10 mm slack in chain, with fingers only. Then used this to set up front, had no problems since I done mine.

I'm sure Tony or Sirch will have their own view on this method, but seems to have worked for me, why wouldn't it?

[Bal]

Yeah, allways more than one way to skin a preverbial.....

[AMCQ46]

Right, I aint no mechanic, but as well as following Sirch's guide ( which was the nuts ) I also added my own method into the equation.
When TDC reached, cam lobes pointed in right direction, I removed oe ccts. Then inserted manuals, and tightened ( with fingers, no tools ) untill couldnt turn any more. Remove camchain guide, chain as tight as a drum. Then, count how many times I have to turn OUT manual CCT to get 7-10 mm slack in chain, with fingers only. Then used this to set up front, had no problems since I done mine.

I'm sure Tony or Sirch will have their own view on this method, but seems to have worked for me, why wouldn't it?

That is a logical way to calibrate the method on the rear cyl so you can repeat on the front, I like it

[leevtr]

Right, I aint no mechanic, but as well as following Sirch's guide ( which was the nuts ) I also added my own method into the equation.
When TDC reached, cam lobes pointed in right direction, I removed oe ccts. Then inserted manuals, and tightened ( with fingers, no tools ) untill couldnt turn any more. Remove camchain guide, chain as tight as a drum. Then, count how many times I have to turn OUT manual CCT to get 7-10 mm slack in chain, with fingers only. Then used this to set up front, had no problems since I done mine.

I'm sure Tony or Sirch will have their own view on this method, but seems to have worked for me, why wouldn't it?

That is a logical way to calibrate the method on the rear cyl so you can repeat on the front, I like it

Phew, I'll sleep tonight now

[leevtr]

Please note that I mistakenly used the plurals of cct's and manuals in my original description, when should have been singular. Dont remove them both at the same time . Doh !!!! Sorry.

[thetroublemaker]

When AMC said about backing the OEM units off 1/4 turn - is that clockwise or counter clockwise? I.E are they a left handed thread.

I am off to take the rocker cover off and start having a look myself shortly!

[leevtr]

When AMC said about backing the OEM units off 1/4 turn - is that clockwise or counter clockwise? I.E are they a left handed thread.

I am off to take the rocker cover off and start having a look myself shortly!

Think you'll find that was to back off the manuals matey. If you do it the way I did then you can ignore that, but do what you think is best. I printed off sirch's fitting guide, and I reccomend it.

[AMCQ46]

When AMC said about backing the OEM units off 1/4 turn - is that clockwise or counter clockwise? I.E are they a left handed thread.

I am off to take the rocker cover off and start having a look myself shortly!

Anti clock will back off the tension.

Note that this is only to get a starting point for your CCT setting, you still need to fine tune. . , Also, it is ok to just pull the old ones out without a setting key, and then fit the manual CCTs and set them using the chain slack measurement on the rear cyl [as you have the rocker cover off to check TDC] and then once you have a feel for what "finger tight and back off" means on the rear, you then do it by feel on the front. then recheck with engine running that it is not too tight [screech noise on start up].

As I already said, I think leevtr's suggestion for calibrating how far you turn back out from "tight as a drum, by hand" to get 7mm chain slack, sounds quite good.

[thetroublemaker]

Well i will lock off the CCT anyway, because i may as well, but i am sure it will all make a whole load more sense when i have the rocker cover off in 20 mins, as that to me seems to make the most sense

[tony.mon]

It's gone very quiet, maybe taking the rocker cover off takes more than 20 minutes.........

And I like the method discussed, as tight as you can and count back.

[thetroublemaker]

ok, NEXT question....

When i have seen references to "doing the front cylinder by feel" do i assume that is only due to people not taking the rocker cover off the front one?

I already have taken the fairing and the front rocker cover off, therefore I can do the front one exactly the same as the rear, as i am doing the valve clearances also at this point.

[AMCQ46]

you are correct, it is only for the lazy people