lloydie's dyno chats and setting for kermit.

[lloydie]

run one setting
art ti oval cans
dyno jet kit .190 mains/.; 45s pilots .4th needle clip
k&n air filter .


run two settings red line.
same as before with ali stacks. cbr600 stick coils, rhs exhaust exit opened up.


run 3 settings blue line
2-1 exhaust


run 4 settings red line
gutted air box and snorkel mod with lid spacer .
190 mains .3rd needle clip 48s pilots .1.5 turns out on mixture .

next run will show the ignition advancer

[lloydie]

My base run .


Standard jets 175f 178r
Standard needles 1 washer front
2 washer rear
Pilots. 48s
1 lift hole front 2 lift holes rear .
Mixtures 1.25 front 1.5 rear turns out
Standard air filter
Standard exhaust
Standard air box lid
Gutted air box base
Dr Honda stacks
+4 ignition advancer
Stick coils

[VTRDark]

And they all have the dip at 5000 ish. Get rid of the K&N.

(:-})

[lloydie]

And they all have the dip at 5000 ish. Get rid of the K&N.

(:-})

Mine had a standard filter in that run .
I think its more to do with the needle taper .

[Smokinjoe73]

Lloydie, good info but I am having trouble translating, is the last one where you list the mods what you believe to be optimum?

Is it possible to write it out, like, 1st run; stock this & that, modded this & that; 1xx hp, 6x torque

How do you think rideability has changed. I find peak hp usually detracts from normal riding.

Thanks for all the good info, and mezmorizing avitar/sig video.

[lloydie]

Lloydie, good info but I am having trouble translating, is the last one where you list the mods what you believe to be optimum?

Is it possible to write it out, like, 1st run; stock this & that, modded this & that; 1xx hp, 6x torque

How do you think rideability has changed. I find peak hp usually detracts from normal riding.

Thanks for all the good info, and mezmorizing avitar/sig video.

The last one is parts and settings used .
I just wanted to get it as rideable as I can and it rides the best I've ever had it set up like this .
These carb setting work on mine and are a very good base line for tweaking and are by no means optimal .
And I have no idea of what dose what
But I'm starting to learn what don't work .
And it will all change again in a week or two as I'm fitting either my quill cans or the akrapovic cans I bought today

[lloydie]

Wrong thread !!

[lumpyv]

as the bike is stationary on a dyno tester will mods that involve the air box / airflow be accurate??

[lloydie]

as the bike is stationary on a dyno tester will mods that involve the air box / airflow be accurate??

What ??

[lumpyv]

as the bike is stationary on a dyno tester will mods that involve the air box / airflow be accurate??

What ??

what I think I am trying to query is that there is no airflow while the bike is strapped on the machine as opposed to lots when travelling forwards at say 80 mph?

probably not explaining what I mean very well.? a bit like the fact that a water cooled bike will overheat whilst stationary.

[lloydie]

The air box has a shield so it's not ram air so it'll still produce the same power at a stand still as it would at 160mph

[lumpyv]

The air box has a shield so it's not ram air so it'll still produce the same power at a stand still as it would at 160mph

oic

[darkember]

" a bit like the fact that a water cooled bike will overheat whilst stationary.[/quote]

I think you mean an air cooled bike

[lloydie]

Base run .
Gutted air box ,
Mori stacks
Mori exhaust
Ported heads
High compression JE pistons
+4' ignition advancer
Dyno jet kit
Needles 3rd clip from sharp end front +1 washer rear .
180 mains
48s pilots
1 3/4 front mixture
2 Rear mixture



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[VTRDark]

That's given you a nice little boost. but you really should stop chatting with the dyno. It's the first sign of madness. Your still getting the 5000 dip though.

(:-})