HI AND TWO QUES WHICH HAVE PROB BEEN ANSWERED BEFORE

[BERNEV]

Hi Everyone

What a great web site!

I have a 1999 Storm (FX) that I have had since 2003 at which point it had 5000 miles. Excellent good condition but some rusty bolts due to being parked up in a damp lock up. I set about making it good including greasing the rear linkage bearings and buying new bolts and nuts and a WP shock. Plus Remus pipes etc.... Anyway, I used it for a year or so, get bored and it sits in the back of my garage - this time nice and cosy and heated. Other bikes follow....Garage space dwindles....

To cut a long story short, I decided to go to Spain on the VTR two weeks ago with my wife in tow on a Ninja 250R. We didn't do much speed obviously - but the 250 is good for 90 so it was reasonable fun. Being eager not to lose her in my mirrors meant that I actually managed an average of 47 mpg over 1500 miles!

To the story again...It handled well and was lovely to ride despite being on 9 year old BT010s. They got nice and sticky which surprised me but they're coming off to be replaced with Roadsmarts or Pilot Road 2s. I also took the opportunity to take the linkage apart when I got back. All came out hunky dory although getting everything out of the way of the Remus L/H mid section (which refused to come off) was a bind. It's all back together now and, like before, there is bugger all clearance (2mm) between the bottom of the linkage and the top of the pipe that curves round in front of the rear tyre (when up on the Abba Stand). Is this normal? the second thing is that there is a very very small (almost imperceptible) amount of vertical play in the swingarm. I can't feel where this is coming from but I suspect the WP shock. The bearings, spacers and bolts were fine. There is no lateral play. Is this acceptable? Trouble is that I can't remember if there was play last time I did it (2003 and at 7500 miles) The bikes has now done 11000 miles.

Finally, the CCT issue. I have read the truly tremendous write up by Carl (I think) about changing to manual tensioners. But I can't be arsed to do all of this! Is there an easier way without taking the bike apart completely - noting that the bike is unlikely to reach 16000 miles for valves for at least another 5 years! Can I buy genuine Honda tensioners and is there a process to keep the cam chain in place that doesn't need me to take off the cam covers?

Sorry, lots of stuff here. But I'm beginning to like the Storm again! It was quite a good sports tourer!

Clive

[agentpineapple]

hi clive
you can do the stopper mod, which involves adapting the honda auto cct's, iirc you still have a similar process as fitting manuals, i know its a faff, but its worth doing for piece of mind.
don't be fooled into thinking that just because you bought brand new honda cct's with an orange dot on them, that the underlying issue has been addressed, it hasn't and the honda auto cct's can fail at anytime, causing hundreds of pounds of damage and an even bigger faff....

[Wicky]

Interesting adventures on your storm beasite, did you have much luggage between you? and any sunny pics of your touring set up.

As for attending to your CCTs- Read these threads on the consequences and consider if it's worth it as they've been known to implode on bikes with only 7,000 miles. And yes you have to delve deep down with tank and airbox off (+ a good time to fit a front cylinder vacuum take off adapter for easy carb balancing) - but you can do it only removing the easily accessible rear cam cover as you can set the timing to know the the front is set correctly.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... ck#p247126

[VTRDark]

Wow that is some introduction. Welcome to the forum.

Yep stop mod would be the way to go, it only requires you to remove the rear cam cover which is as simple as removing the tank. But check that the centre cap on the generator comes undone first.

Stop mod http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=19416
Which is the Honda auto CCT's that are converted to a fail safe. Do them as the bike has been sitting around for a while with no oil circulating which leaves you a little more vulnerable.

(:-})

[8541Hawk]

Well I haven't been here long enough to really breech this topic but auto CCTs can work.

There are a couple of rules to follow, one of which is: If the bike is new to you, replace them.

I can give more info but my bike has always run auto tensioners (one reason is each time I go to replace them manuals have been on back order) and I have between 90-100K on her.

So IMHO either type can give good service, the one thing that I don't agree with is the changing the front unit without removing the valve cover.....

[VTRDark]

the one thing that I don't agree with is the changing the front unit without removing the valve cover.....

Me neither as it's good to be able to check that the cams are aligned properly if you don't know the bikes history. But saying that, as long as everything is running OK to begin with, and one is either just replacing the auto tensioners or doing a stop mod on them, it is simple enough to do the front without removing the cover.

(:-})

[tony.mon]

hi clive
you can do the stopper mod, which involves adapting the honda auto cct's, iirc you still have a similar process as fitting manuals, i know its a faff, but its worth doing for piece of mind.
don't be fooled into thinking that just because you bought brand new honda cct's with an orange dot on them, that the underlying issue has been addressed, it hasn't and the honda auto cct's can fail at anytime, causing hundreds of pounds of damage and an even bigger faff....

Yep, I did that, first time round, they lasted 18 months then failed and bent valves.......

[AMCQ46]

There will be a little free play in the rear linkage I have just replaced all my bearings and races to get rid of it on my bike and although there is less play,there is still some. So don't worry too much.

[BERNEV]

Thanks everybody for your replies and the welcome. I'm happy on the linkage front. I think I will do the stopper mod first as the tank and air filter are off/out at least so quite easy now to get the rear cam cover off. And then I can check the valve clearances. If they are out then I'll have no real option but to go further and then will decide if I'm going to go for the manuals. Incidentally, where are they purchased from and are they reasonably priced? I'll also look at all of the links you've kindly provided.

On the trip/luggage front, we didn't take any photos of the bikes at all as it was mainly raining! However, the VTR had a baglux tank bag (that came with the bike) and a set of Oxford Sports panniers (that came with my TRX850). Held on with mini bungies and over an Oxford anti slip mat (and without the seat cowl), the panniers were fine and didn't leak either. Wife on the 250R had a tank bag!

Cheers

Clive

[VTRDark]

There's a few option for manual tensioners.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 16&t=22720

The front is more important than the rear as the front does not get as a good an oil supply as the rear so tends to be the one that fail 9 times out of 10.

(:-})