How do I get engine mounts out?

TheLump · Post by **TheLump** » Thu Oct 24, 2013 1:26 pm

The long bolts going through the frame holding the engine in place. How do they work? Take the top front one for example: Nut on right side, castellated (?) nut on the left side, OK got both those off, now what?

Oh, another question too: Where do I get the cheapest possible manual (Learnt my lesson) cam-chain tensioners??

Ckennedy · Post by **Ckennedy** » Thu Oct 24, 2013 2:15 pm

With the engine mounting bolts you will find that one should come out really easy and the other one may not. I can't not remember which one you may strougle with, think its the back one but I could be wrong. It will have seized and and fight you all the way. Someone wil be a logn with some tips and which one it'll be soon I should think. Usually a bit of heat around the mount on the engine can help move the bolt but you'd have to be careful for obvious reasons.

As for manual ccts bazza is your best bet I think. 40quud for a set of his converted ones. Iv got them in mine and can't fault them.

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Thu Oct 24, 2013 3:16 pm

Firstly put the castle head nut back on as that comes off last .
Also refit the 17mm nut .
You will need to sit the engine on a box/floor as long as it's taking its own weight your good to go .
The front bolt will be a pain in the ass I know as I spent the last 3 hours trying to get it out with no joy as it will have fused itself to the engine .
Heat is your friend and a large hammer .
Undo the 17mm nut on the front mount bolt about 3mm out .
Heat up the engine where the bolt passes through then put an old 17mm socket and short extension on to the nut and tw@ it repeat till it's loose .
Ones loose you will be working on the left side again heat the frame up around the adjuster bolt . Bring the castle nut up around the the end so as to aide support to the long bolt if you don't then you will wombles up the adjuster . Once you have got enough heat undo the Allen bolt but only about 5mm .
Now remove the long bolt .
The others are easy

MacV2 · Post by **MacV2** » Thu Oct 24, 2013 3:30 pm

Yep it's normally the top one that seizes. There is a bit of the frame on the right hand side that the bolt passes through, best way to describe it is a pipe welded to the frame (the nut end of the bolt not the adjuster end), if that makes sense...hahaha. This was the spot it had sized in on my one.

Trying to turn the bolt I could see it flexing at the adjuster side but no movement at all at the nut end. A good soaking with WD40 a bit of heat on the ''Pipe'' & lots of hammer action got it moving.

If you are going to use the bolt again, put the nut on the end before whacking to stop burring the end over, it will get to the point where the nut has to come off then use a drift of some kind to carry on whacking. iirc it's not threaded into the frame or the engine so should pull/push/whack out.

On my one I wasn't keeping the frame which was just as well as all the whacking, heat & corrosion had knackered the ''pipe'' it has split, but it was badly corroded.

If your taking the motor out as your braking the bike...get your grinder out & cut the fecker up!

If your rebuilding & using the same frame again, take a bit more care getting it out & when you rebuild use lashings of copperslip on the bolt.

Have fun whacking.

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Thu Oct 24, 2013 6:06 pm

Where do I get the cheapest possible manual

Here you go

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=18025

And this will help with the engine mounts.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=27362

(:-})

TheLump · Post by **TheLump** » Fri Oct 25, 2013 2:17 pm

You guys are stars!

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Fri Oct 25, 2013 3:17 pm

TheLump wrote:You guys are stars!

Did you get it out ?

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Fri Oct 25, 2013 3:58 pm

Did you get it out ?

I hope your referring to the engine mount.

(:-})

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Fri Oct 25, 2013 4:10 pm

cybercarl wrote:
Did you get it out ?
I hope your referring to the engine mount.

(:-})

Well it's not Jammie's mum !

TheLump · Post by **TheLump** » Fri Oct 25, 2013 7:30 pm

lloydie wrote:Did you get it out ?

No, I was referring to the fact that several of you bothered to respond to what is a kinda boring topic. So I thank you profusely, and am going to get the even bigger hammer out tomorrow. I have squirted a bit of WD40 at it, and will add a bit of heat into the mix tomorrow. I am unfortunately going to keep the frame, I am simply giving the bike a new engine. I am starting to think it could be simpler to take the front head off the new motor, and put it on my old motor?? Thoughts?

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Fri Oct 25, 2013 7:35 pm

What's wrong with the fitted engine ?

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Fri Oct 25, 2013 8:07 pm

If it's just a front cylinder head replacement then it's simple enough to do that in the frame.

(:-})

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Fri Oct 25, 2013 9:23 pm

TheLump wrote:
lloydie wrote:Did you get it out ?
No, I was referring to the fact that several of you bothered to respond to what is a kinda boring topic. So I thank you profusely, and am going to get the even bigger hammer out tomorrow. I have squirted a bit of WD40 at it, and will add a bit of heat into the mix tomorrow. I am unfortunately going to keep the frame, I am simply giving the bike a new engine. I am starting to think it could be simpler to take the front head off the new motor, and put it on my old motor?? Thoughts?

Yes, infinitely simpler to replace the head.
I'd say the head replacement is less than a day. but an engine swap is two to four days depending on how seized-in it is.

TheLump · Post by **TheLump** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 12:08 pm

OK, I have twatted it with my biggest hammer, and it did not budge. Looks like I should replace the cylinder-head instead then, right?

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