loss of electrics

[dusty1969]

hello people im a newbie to the site and ownership so here goes?

my p reg firestorm symptom 1: riding along backfire loss of power electrics,the fuse in the starter solenoid had blown,
previous owner had fitted a 15 amp fuse?supposed to be 30 amp? any way electrics back on battery flat as !
friendly bikers give me a bump start,bike fires up, ride for about another mile,bike dies again fuse(30 amp didn't blow)but battery flat as a fart would not bump start,
(the previous owners seem to have done some shoddy wiring connections that would make my past bodge ups look professional??)nice man from AA recovers me home.

at home fitted a new battery as old one reading on multimeter 1.5 volts
went for spin same symptoms same nice AA man!!!!!!!!

at home i followed the starter circuit the 30 amp fuse didnt pop but was melting ??
i later found the positive lead to the starter motor had been stretched an improperly crimped(wrong size crimp-too big) the wiring was half-out loosely in the crimp,new battery plenty of juice lights and horn etc working just buzzing rattling at starter solenoid?
went on line and ordered a replica starter solenoid £15, for good measure and am about to get my crimping kit out and have a good once over around the loom with multimeter to check circuits?
i know the loose connection is one very probable cause,i couldnt find a negative lead on starter motor(short circuit) behind all the road gunk? how are they designed neutral to earth internally? any phots? well im off on my merry fault finding way in hope of some inspiration ? before i turn to alcohol for a break from the AA man??

[macdee]

the starter wiring shouldn't cause the bike to back fire tidy it wiring up clean and grease
what type of rec/ref is on your bike if they go they can sometimes take the battery with them
check the voltage when the bike is running it should produce about 14v if its allot higher the chances are that its buggered and killed your last battery
don't run the bike until this is sorted (if that's the problem )

[budd]

the reg/rec is a common problem, popular upgrade is to a CBR125 item, I'd go for a genuine part rather than a pattern/replica

[VTRDark]

Mmmm I don't know, there's more too this than a dodgy R/R if the main fuse is blowing. This is a wiring problem as something is shorting out the main fuse. There's obviously a history of problems here if the previous owner put a 15a in. You may want to check the wiring between the starter relay (solenoid) and starter switch on the bar, also check the live feed from the main fuse (starter relay) that goes the the R/R.

You will find a wiring diagram here which may help
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=24036

(:-})

[dusty1969]

hello all,
after battery recharged, i started the bike ok, ran it up and down the street in case of breakdown,any way 15 mins of running i stopped the engine,tried to restart dead as a dodo??? got my multimeter and battery reading 9.3 volts,???
back in the garage take off the rear cowl,sports rack etc,to expose the regulator rectifier no signs of damage etc?
got meter out again and reading 12.2 volts??
put battery on charge and currently scratching my semi bald napper!!!

[dusty1969]

no blown fuses this time??

[dusty1969]

i also re-crimped the very loose connection(poorly crimped,conductor had slipped half out)cleaned up connections etc good low resistance on meter

[VTRDark]

R/R is most likely faulty then especially if it the original unfinned version and possibly bad battery. Run through the following checks.
Regulator Rectifier Charging System Diagnosis Checks

(:-})

[dusty1969]

thanks all for the tips,
i tested for voltage drop after recharging battery,
started engine ok 12.8 volts
within 30 second,s dropped to 11.2 and kept dropping
i switched engine off istantly
the r/r was literally "smoking"
afterwards to my dismay the battery was fried and unchargable(expensive way to fault find boiling a brand new battery!! )

so my next step is where to get a correct rated(reliable) replacement and battery taboot!!

at least i am heading in the right direction(unlike the bike sat in the garage!! )
time to go and drown my sorrows ?lol

[VTRDark]

(expensive way to fault find boiling a brand new battery!! )

The mistake was not thoroughly testing the R/R sooner before putting a new battery on and going for ride.

(:-})

[dusty1969]

cybercarl, i followed your thread to test the r/r
stage one ok ?
stage 2 ok no voltage drop with the lights on
stage 3 with the engine running got instant voltage drop and switched engine off,
but it was too late battery u/s ??

was worth a try anyway, the smoking r/r was the giveaway in the end?

[VTRDark]

So under load the r/r has broken down under load. Usually I would say it's best to change the battery as well as the r/r, but considering it's a brand new battery I would say change the r/r and in the meantime see if your battery charger will recover the battery and if it holds a charge. It may still be OK as it takes time for the plates inside the cells to get damaged to the point of no return. Once you have replaced the r/r run through the tests again to verify everything is all OK. Make sure the earth for the r/r is in good condition too.

(:-})

[dusty1969]

cybercarl,i have fully recharged the battery,after charging and in 24 hours it has dropped from 13.2 v to 12.9v i think i might have got away with it fingers crossed?

[VTRDark]

Good news, get that regulator rectifier changed then and don't forget a good clean earth.

(:-})