another starting problem

[chaz]

working on a 2001/2 storm that has starting problems.
currently running standard jetting with scorpion cans.
there was a fair bit of play in the front carb side and without airbox on we could see fuel comming out more than vapour. thanks to lloydie the new carbs look better especially as one of the diaphragms was perished in the old ones.
one of the cans is missing the baffle.
the reg rec has been changed.
iridium plugs.
standard air box and filter.

on a morning it will only start on easy start,when its warm its not too bad.
Im thinking choke but carbs have been changed and same results!!
Ive read on another thread about race cans having a problem, now thinking of putting standard cans on as the bike was (until carb change) doing around 75 miles to the tank full.


thoughts please

[Ckennedy]

The cans wouldn't really make a difference unless they were stubbies and then I don't think it would be an issue until it came to riding rather than starting. Even though you have changed the plugs are you getting a strong enough spark? The rubbers on the carbs arnt split or not done up tight enough? taking in to much air will cause you problems.

Is the engine trying to start strong but not firing up? Is the battery holding enough charge to get it going?

[popkat]

valve clearances closed up, sounds like low compression.. Do/check clearances then do compression test..

[chaz]

CCT's were changed and timing checked /reset ok. can do the valves, just a pain with the front one. any easy way of doing it?
battery was changed at same time as reg/rec. spark is ok, plugs just seems dry after trying to start for a while.
will take battery down before it starts.

[popkat]

It's not hard to get front cover off, doesn't take long to remove the fairing the unbolt a rad or rads for easier access.

Make sure you timed it using the correct mark, if not you could be one tooth out, but bike will still run and should start ok, worth rechecking though.

If the bike runs once started then it's getting fuel, if spark was weak your plugs could be wet so that doesn't sound like the problem, eliminate the valve clearance and compression then go from there.

[Saintsman27]

What size battery have you got on the storm spinning that
motor ? at least 12 amps is good .. the gel matt battery types
are good.. and of course check ground and all leads to ensure
connection ..

[chaz]

Have dived inside today, the compression was down to 50psi as best as I could get with my short stem tester.
checked the rear head and the exhaust were just on 0.012" so ok, the inlets down to 0.001" not 0.006" so looks like thats the problem.
running iridium plugs EIX not the EVX as manual says.

as we are miles from the nearest Honda spares does anyone have spare shims on hand?

would it be an idea to have a pool of shims on the forum that could go around to any one who needs them? as long as we cover postage everyone would benefit. returning their old ones back to stock.

[popkat]

DPR9EIX-9 is the listed plug.

Honda dealer should be able to send out shims or someone on ebay will be selling them.

[thunderbolt]

Have dived inside today, the compression was down to 50psi as best as I could get with my short stem tester.

50psi is way off. 164psi is the standard reading. Your reading should be at least a 100psi minimum preferably higher. There are issues there. Do the shims and then test again but buy a decent long reach compression tester.

[VTRDark]

I was thinking the same. There are issues there and I would be concerned about any other further damage if a bike has been ridden around with valve clearances that low. I'm surprised it even ran at all even with the easy start. It just goes to show how easy start can mask over more serious issues.

(:-})

[lloydie]

From my old engine that used lots of oil !!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Varastorm]

If it was passing (breathing) back up through the carb & you have checked for a gap (any gap) between the cam lobe to bucket, it sounds like bent valves.

Has it had a cam chain tensioner failed with the previous owner & passed it on to you (without telling you)?

I remember working on a (Bargain ) Yamaha R6, it was biatch to start, once it started & got hot it just wouldn't start. IIRC it was greedy on fuel too.

Turned out it was the nickel bores worn oval

Once you get it running, remove an engine breather or the oil fill screw to check if its not passing the rings & pressuring the crank casings.

You will see excessive vapour coming out if the rings have gone

Hope its just tight valves, but these are some experiences I have come across

[popkat]

Before speculating on anything else get the valve clearances in spec, then do another compression test, do it with the best tester you can find and take time to get it set up correctly. If doing a cold test add 5% for a warm figure.

If after that you still have low compression then it will be time to look into other possible causes.

[lowside]

Before you start messing with valve clearances do a wet compression test. Squirt a few pumps of oil into the bores and recheck the compressions. If the reading goes up by a marked amount then your problem is bottom end not top. I would have thought that any clearance will insure the valve is closed and will stay closed at canking speed.

[popkat]

Before you start messing with valve clearances do a wet compression test. Squirt a few pumps of oil into the bores and recheck the compressions. If the reading goes up by a marked amount then your problem is bottom end not top. I would have thought that any clearance will insure the valve is closed and will stay closed at canking speed.

Why, the op has already shown that the clearances are way too tight, they Need doing regardless. After that look at other things if it still isn't right or running right.