So disaster struck on way to work the other day there, front cct/chain snapped and that horrible sound of a bag of spanners in the engine began.
I have pulled off tank air box filter drained coolant ect.
My question is before splitting the frame to get the engine out to see extent of damage do i need the castle nut removal tool to get the engine out or is that just for putting back togetger to set proper torque?
You don't have to remove the engine to check the damage to the front cylinder from a CCT failure. You can remove the cylinder head with the engine in place.
This link will help you:- http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=28583
Thanks the bolts on top of the head look like there going to need some work to remove, taking off the carbs i seen 1 bent valve so going to remove engine to check over everything before i decided to either repair it or just get another engine.
Welcome to the forum.Those curse of the vtr strikes again.Good luck with it,the job to convert to manual cct's took me all day,but worth the effort for peace of mind.
SO WHEN DOES THIS OLD ENOUGH TO KNOW BETTER KICK IN
Suggest you re-think your plans.
You need a castle nut tool, sure, but that's the easy bit.
The engine mounting bolts can be a real pig to get out; the front one goes all the way through the engine behind the front cyl head and seizes in quite often. If so, it needs cutting out, and your choice is either to cut through the engine mounting bosses or the frame.....
As said, the heads come off with the engine in the frame, and I offer a head rebuilding service.
Chances are it'll be the front one that's gone, it nearly always is.
So leave the rear one alone, they never both go at once.
It's a quick and easy job to pull the rear head off, a bit more work needed for the front one (easiest with the rads off) and you'll also need to lower (but not remove) the oil cooler.
If you had a spare head to hand it's a days work, tops.
Iv'e spent as much as a whole weekend on removing that stuck bolt before....
And it's a lot easier to undo head bolts with the engine in the frame than it is to undo them on a loose engine.
Good luck!
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Hey thanks for reply yea going to try get head off while still in the frame, it is the front cylinder as i can see 1 bent valve when i removed the carbs.
Tank airbox, carbs and fairing off, undo the bracket-to-frame bolts so that the oil cooler and it's bracket are still together, remove the two small brackets that support the rads, and you can then (with a rag as padding) rest the oil cooler on the front mudguard.
Drain coolant, remove LH side rad- the right hand one can stay there but as it's only two bolts and some hoses, you might as well pull it off.
Remove the two caps on the alt cover and turn the engine to a front TDC.
Now you can get the cam cover off, check that the front cam lobes are pointing up and away form each other.
If not, and they are pointing down and holding the valves open, rotate engine to the next FTDC.
Remove front CCT. It's scrap now, so have some manual ones to hand to replace both.
Undo all of the cam cap casting bolts, (don't drop the one in the side down the cam chain tunnel) and remove cams.
Undo the 10mm bolts in the head, then the 14mm ones.
Remove the exhaust system and collector, using a not splitter on the header nut unless they are easily able to be loosened- if they shear the head/exhaust studs it's not a disaster,m just adds more work- and now with a tap or two of a rubber mallet the head will come off.
Now it's time for elevenses.
After elevenses, strip and rebuild the head.
Fit a new head gasket, and reinstallation is the same as above but backwards.
Shim to correct clearances, and go for a ride at teatime as a little treat.
Yup, if you have all the parts to hand it's a day job.
(Not at a Honda dealer though!)
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Yea already stripped carbs exhaust off and drained coolant so just need to get oil cooler off and were good to go as long as the bolts on the head play game just to make sure when lining up the crank its counter clockwise you turn it? Cheers
Drever696 wrote:Yea already stripped carbs exhaust off and drained coolant so just need to get oil cooler off and were good to go as long as the bolts on the head play game just to make sure when lining up the crank its counter clockwise you turn it? Cheers
Yes, anticlock, but if the valve damage prevents you turning it that way then remove the starter motor and you can then revolve it clockwise if you need to.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
I've just done a full strip on my bike, including taking the engine out. I left the bike for 4 days, each day going round and spraying every bolt with WD40, can't recommend it enough! I only had 3 stuck bolts on the whole bike and it was pretty grotty. Having said that one of the 3 to get stuck was the frame / engine adjuster bolt at the front left which I've broken, if it gets stuck DON'T FORCE IT it can't take it!
Hope you won't have to take it out but if you do WD40 for the win!
If it's broken; should it move? Yes: Use WD40 No: Use cable ties. Now it's fixed!
Yea there soaking in wd40 right now so hopefully wont be too much grief tomorrow when i go to remove it, hopefully theres no damage to the piston and its just a case of new cct and replace the bent valves
the bolts on top of the head look like there going to need some work to remove, taking off the carbs i seen 1 bent valve so going to remove engine to check over everything before i decided to either repair it or just get another engine.
