Questions, questions. New to 'storm.

[JNB]

I've had a good read through the forums and have found then very helpful already but I do have some specific questions.

Prepare yourself for a barrage!

1. Does anyone have contact details for bsabloke? He's no longer posting and I'd like to get some mirror extenders, happy with second hand if anyone has any going.

2. Clutch seems really, really grabby. Most of the engagement comes in right at the end of the travel of the lever, where I have least control. I've adjusted the lever closer to the bar but it's not enough. Any known fixes? Recommended after market levers?

3. Will the larger tank from later models fit right on without any mods?

4. I may pick up a lower fairing, anything I need to be careful about while looking?

5. I'm going to replace most of the fasteners with stainless (just for corrosion resistance). Do I have to worry about dissimilar metal corrosion anywhere?

6. Does the rear cct require replacement? Front is done. From what I've seen, the issue is the front, rear is generally fine?

That's all for now I think... ;)


Oh, anyone got a 12v socket installed?

Thanks folks!

[fabiostar]

I've had a good read through the forums and have found then very helpful already but I do have some specific questions.

Prepare yourself for a barrage!

1. Does anyone have contact details for bsabloke? He's no longer posting and I'd like to get some mirror extenders, happy with second hand if anyone has any going.

2. Clutch seems really, really grabby. Most of the engagement comes in right at the end of the travel of the lever, where I have least control. I've adjusted the lever closer to the bar but it's not enough. Any known fixes? Recommended after market levers?

3. Will the larger tank from later models fit right on without any mods?

4. I may pick up a lower fairing, anything I need to be careful about while looking?

5. I'm going to replace most of the fasteners with stainless (just for corrosion resistance). Do I have to worry about dissimilar metal corrosion anywhere?

6. Does the rear cct require replacement? Front is done. From what I've seen, the issue is the front, rear is generally fine?

That's all for now I think... ;)


Oh, anyone got a 12v socket installed?

Thanks folks!

2 change the oil and bleed the clutch, they are all a little grabby at times. i fitted a heavy duty EBC clutch kit which solved most of it.
3 yes it will fit on but they have different taps and the fuel guage sender thinky needs modded(chenged) as far as i know.
4 make sure you get the brackets with it
5 use lots of coppa grease you will be fine,
6 change both ccts before it shits itself. unless you can see manuals of know for sure the stopper mod is done. change them please.
7 yellow storms are faster then the rest.

[fabiostar]

8. make sure the rec behind the R/H seat panel has fins on it. if not it will over heat..

[alanfjones1411]

He seems to have most things covered for you except the colour because red is the fastest.

[VTR Phoenix]

Also check your connector on the starter motor and keep it well greased under the rubber cover or it WILL rust up.

Check the shock linkage is moving freely. Might be best to remove shock and clean and regrease needle bearings.

[kenmoore]

Paint it red if it is any other colour because we all know red is the fastest.

[MacV2]

Re clutch...As said fresh oil may help but another trick is to remove & clean the clutch actuation rod.

When you change the clutch hydralic fluid after removing the old stuff before you put the fresh in, remove the sprocket cover.

First job is to clean all the shite from under it, old chain lube ect...Use chain cleaner/brake cleaner/wd40/gunk/cleaning product of choice...

Once you have done that the pull the clutch rod out, this is a 4/5mm rod that goes from that side through the engine to the clutch on the other side.

Always clean up the sprocket side first as you dont want any crud going back in when you put the rod back !

So pull the rod all the way out. Make sure you note which way it goes as the clutch end is hardened...

Inspect rod & use fine grade wet & dry or a fine scotch pad to clean the length of your rod...You may find some corosion on the rod so get rid of it.

Shouldn't need any lube, push it back in again making sure it's the right way round...The sprocket end will probably be discouloured...

Put the sprocket cover back on & bleed the clutch back up. Have fun as this can take some time to do.

I favour the reverse bleed method, use a large syringe & push the fluid up/in from the bleed nipple. Take care as the reservoir pot is very small. Once you have filled the pipe & res pot, bleed through in the normal way until you have a nice clutch action.

If after all that you still have a grabby clutch...I'd say it's time to put a new cltch in...

Oh & finaly whereabouts are you located, as no one has asked before...Someone local may be able to help you hands on...Rates are normaly quite competative...cake, biscuits, tea, coffee or beer normaly cover it...

[MacV2]

Oh & someone else asked about BSAbloke the other day...Dont think hes around making them, but I'll drop him a PM alerting him of your need...

Get rear CCT done, you say the front has been replaced is that with a std one or a manual type ?

If it's had a std one put in change both to Manual ASAP...thats ASAP !!

Re tank swap...For the extra 3 ltr capacity it's not worth the cost & hassle IMO. I have both 16 & 19 ltr tank bikes it's easy to get 120+ miles from the 16ltr by which time you'll be wanting to stop for a stretch/fag/cuppa/comfort brake anyway...

[agentpineapple]

i have to agree with mac regarding the tank swap, not worth it for 3ltrs, as for bsabloke, he is still making them, he's on one of the facebook pages. Honda VTR1000 Firestorm owners!
join it and contact him there.....

[8541Hawk]

As for the clutch "issue"....you don't really have one, that is just how the clutch works on this bike.

What you will find is that with a big twin there is no need to ever slide the clutch like you are used to with inline 4s.

Just let it out and give it some throttle..... no fuss no muss..... and remember that no matter what you do, the clutch will always "grab" and will never act like the clutch on other bikes.

[vardypeeps]

2. Clutch seems really, really grabby?
Bleed and put in new fluid and slave cylinder seal

3. Will the larger tank from later models fit right on without any mods.
Honestly like others have said I wouldn't bother and it does involve faffage

4. I may pick up a lower fairing, anything I need to be careful about while looking.
Usual fairing cracks but if buying online these bits tend not to be photographed anyway.

5. I'm going to replace most of the fasteners with stainless (just for corrosion resistance). Do I have to worry about dissimilar metal corrosion anywhere?
Biggest issue I have found is the rear subframe where the battery holder sits on the bar across it, rusts like mad. Also you can tend to find that some brute has broken the welds that hold the rear fairing in either side of the seat where it should screw into the subframe.

6. Does the rear cct require replacement? Front is done. From what I've seen, the issue is the front, rear is generally fine?
Only replaced my front CCT with a manual one and had no issues or tapping since, it's mainly due to how the oil doesn't really reach it in the front cylinder and the tensioners performance drops off quickly. My understanding anyway.

Sure most have already covered some of these points. Pretty realiable bikes as they tend not to get worked that hard.

If it has the original Reg Rec I would change it out for a Blackbird one but I'm not sure which is the best year.