straight bars-trick bitz risers

[haynesjones66]

ok, this is just a record of what i'm doing. i've got the risers as shown below and they are very well made, but i have hit on a few problems.



because of the clamp thickness on the left riser, the clutch line leaves the master cylinder at a very jaunty angle. so i might have to look at buying a new clutch line.



this is the view from the seat. as you can see, the master is too high up and so is the clutch lever.



for the eagle eyed among you, the brake reservoir is held up with a Swansea City scarf...

has anyone replaced/modified the clutch line on here? it goes from standard hose to thinner pipe then back to hose again.

[MacV2]

Buy braided hoses.

you'll prob need slightly longer ones than standard.

[haynesjones66]

i'll be getting braided hoses for the brakes but can i just get one long braided hose to replace the clutch line? i assume that would be ok

[MacV2]

i'll be getting braided hoses for the brakes but can i just get one long braided hose to replace the clutch line? i assume that would be ok

Yep. no problem & get one for the rear brake as well whilst yor at it...

[haynesjones66]

splendid. i'm removing all the lines next so i can start from scratch.

[sirch345]

I see you have read my reply to the clutch hose bracket question:- viewtopic.php?f=7&t=42569&p=465489#p465489

If you're careful and very lucky you can slacken off the banjo bolt just enough to spin the clutch hose around a little, that will allow you to be able to drop the position of the clutch lever down further. I was lucky and managed it without getting any air in the system.




Chris.

[haynesjones66]

i was thinking that, but because these risers are a bit bulky and a bit further back than i thought, the loom is a bit tight when turning the bars. so i'm cutting a little off the ends of the bars to bring everything a bit closer. the clutch hose will be too close then, even if i spin it up a bit. drilling the headstock for risers does seem to be a better option but it's too late now! anyone looking to fit straight bars, take note!! these risers are a nice bit of kit but a lot of faff is required to make everything else fit.

[sirch345]

i was thinking that, but because these risers are a bit bulky and a bit further back than i thought, the loom is a bit tight when turning the bars. so i'm cutting a little off the ends of the bars to bring everything a bit closer. the clutch hose will be too close then, even if i spin it up a bit. drilling the headstock for risers does seem to be a better option but it's too late now! anyone looking to fit straight bars, take note!! these risers are a nice bit of kit but a lot of faff is required to make everything else fit.

You need to be careful by reducing the handlebar length/width, as my banjo bolt on the clutch master cylinder is as close as it will go without touching the fork stanchion with the clutch lever at the angle I wanted, that's without reducing the bar lenght/width.
I know photo's can be deceiving at times, but I don't think your risers bring the bars back any further than mine do, in actual fact I think my bars are back a little further than yours are.

Are far as things being a flaff, I think most modifications are, but once you've succeeded the mod, and you're happy with it, it's well worth the head scratching, blood sweat and tears

If you're referring to the loom on the lefthand side of the bike, I moved mine outside of the fork stanchion as in the photo below:-



Chris.

[haynesjones66]

that's a good idea. thanks for that. i've drained down the brakes and clutch (i'll deal with bleeding later!!), removed the hoses, bolted everything back on the bars and it all seems to fit a little better. i will need to take the throttle cables off the twistgrip next, as they wont fit as they are. i assume they will be ok on the outside of the fork instead of inbetween. all good fun! i've loosely assembled the controls at this point as i will at some stage need to drill holes in the bars for the locating pegs. the bars came from a bandit and the dimples (word of the day) dont line up with anything on mine.

[sirch345]

Yes the standard throttle cables will work okay if you move them outside of the fork leg, you will probably need to adjust the free play though.

Some do away with the return throttle cable and just use the pull cable.
Personally I like the two cables, but the standard ones do rub up against the fairing on full lock. So I intend to use longer cables at some point so I can use the original route in behind the fork leg.

You seem to be making progress

Chris.

[haynesjones66]

great. that's what i wanted to hear. keep us posted as to which cables you eventually go for.

[haynesjones66]

you can tell it's a wet day! busy in the shed again, lining everything up. i put the fairing back on quickly to see about clearance and it's looking promising. i dont really want to trim the fairing if possible so i've adjusted everything to approximately where they will end up and it might just work.





that's on right and left lock but i will need bigger steering lock stops than usual. on the left bar there is a gap between the grip and the clutch lever carrier. this is fine for me as i have ape hands to reach the lever

[sirch345]

You're doing very well, that is looking good

Just remember though the fairing will pull in slightly each side when you tighten up the nuts on the mirrors, obviously fitting the mirrors on the bike first
That screw on the clutch master cyl. reservoir that holds the safety bracket in place to stop the lid coming undone, I had to remove that and the bracket to clear the fairing,

Chris.

[haynesjones66]

well that was weird. i connected my new clutch line up and tried bleeding it. gave up in a strop and asked my mate to do it, no problem. i havent drilled any locating holes in the bars yet, so tightened everything as much as i dared then gaffer taped everything in place. i set off down the road for a few miles with no front brake (dont try this at home, kids) and found myself shifting around as my hip was playing up again. the bars are in the same place as my fazer but because the tank is longer and i'm sitting further back, i seem to be putting all my weight on my arms which just doesnt feel right. i'm now considering going back to standard as i was beginning to gel with the new position and the honda ergonomics seem to be just right.

[bobbler]

well that was weird. i connected my new clutch line up and tried bleeding it. gave up in a strop and asked my mate to do it, no problem. i havent drilled any locating holes in the bars yet, so tightened everything as much as i dared then gaffer taped everything in place. i set off down the road for a few miles with no front brake (dont try this at home, kids) and found myself shifting around as my hip was playing up again. the bars are in the same place as my fazer but because the tank is longer and i'm sitting further back, i seem to be putting all my weight on my arms which just doesnt feel right. i'm now considering going back to standard as i was beginning to gel with the new position and the honda ergonomics seem to be just right.

If you do decide to go back I may be interested in your bar clamps as I want to do a straight bar conversion to mine