rear wheel misalignment

[tastethefloor]

hi guys, i just found my rear wheel was misaligned, apart the tire wear..is it possible to have done others damages?
anyway this is strange I found rear nut to be a little loose and I'm sure to had torque it to 93 N-m the day I changed the tire
sorry for my English
ciao

[8541Hawk]

It could possibly cause odd wear on the sprockets and also can cause damage to the wheel bearings if run that way for any length of time.

[tastethefloor]

maybe also the chain

[tastethefloor]

my rear wheel still be misaligned, I got a lot of tire rubber everywhere on the rear, so the tire doesn't work correcly.Both the marks on the swingarm are at the same distance. my question is do I have to trust these marks? this is strange because on the previous tire everythings was ok.cheers
p.s. tire pressure is ok, wheels is balanced

[AMCQ46]

i never trust the markers on the swing arm. use a string method or straight edges

[tony.mon]

Agree, the marks are not always accurate.
Bear in mind it also wears the chain if it's out, because the sprockets aren't lined up either.

[Flatline]

Not heard of 'the string method' how's that work?

[MacV2]

Not heard of 'the string method' how's that work?

https://www.google.com/search?q=motorcy ... nt=gws-wiz

[freeridenick]

The string method works but is a bit fiddly.

I've found that there's a lot of play on the right side of the wheel. No clue why but with the adjusters in the same place and the axle in, the left side doesn't move for and aft but the right side easily moves 5-8mm. Pushing the right side forward against the adjuster gives me good alignment.

[sirch345]

The string method works but is a bit fiddly.

I've found that there's a lot of play on the right side of the wheel. No clue why but with the adjusters in the same place and the axle in, the left side doesn't move for and aft but the right side easily moves 5-8mm. Pushing the right side forward against the adjuster gives me good alignment.

I agree on the string bit.

Using straight edges is easier, I usually raise my straight edges up on some bricks piled up to the required level.

I do the same as in making sure the wheel is pushed as for forward as it will go on the adjusters before tightening up the wheel spindle. Once the wheel spindle is tightened up I also nip up the adjusters to make sure they are tight (they should only move a small amount after the spindle has been tightened). If one adjuster turns a lot more than the other you didn't have the wheel up against the adjusters properly before tightening the wheel spindle.

I also have a red dot (a spot of red paint on the end of the adjuster bolt that I put there once I have the wheels properly aligned, that allows me to to keep an eye on how many flats of the adjuster bolt head I have turned it making it easier to turn both adjusters the same amount when adjusting the chain. Making a mental note before you start of which way the adjusters turn also helps when you're only making fine adjustments.

I just re-read that, it makes me sound like a Geek almost

Chris.

[8541Hawk]

The string method works but is a bit fiddly.

I've found that there's a lot of play on the right side of the wheel. No clue why but with the adjusters in the same place and the axle in, the left side doesn't move for and aft but the right side easily moves 5-8mm. Pushing the right side forward against the adjuster gives me good alignment.

The way I get around this was shown to me by a real old timer..... After setting the adjusters, put a rag between the lower run of the chain and rear sprocket. Rotate the wheel so the rag takes all the slack out of the chain which pulls the wheel forward into the adjusters (Also a good time to re-check the alignment).
Then do the 3 handed magic of holding the rear wheel to keep tension while torquing the rear wheel nut to spec.

Actually with a little practice it is easy.... I use my knee to hold the wheel while tightening things down

[sirch345]

The string method works but is a bit fiddly.

I've found that there's a lot of play on the right side of the wheel. No clue why but with the adjusters in the same place and the axle in, the left side doesn't move for and aft but the right side easily moves 5-8mm. Pushing the right side forward against the adjuster gives me good alignment.

The way I get around this was shown to me by a real old timer..... After setting the adjusters, put a rag between the lower run of the chain and rear sprocket. Rotate the wheel so the rag takes all the slack out of the chain which pulls the wheel forward into the adjusters (Also a good time to re-check the alignment).
Then do the 3 handed magic of holding the rear wheel to keep tension while torquing the rear wheel nut to spec.

Actually with a little practice it is easy.... I use my knee to hold the wheel while tightening things down

A good idea that Mike

Chris.