front fork rebound damping adjuster

[baynesy]

I am just putting my forks back together having done the standard fork upgrade service including the 1mm holes, ground taper, a freshen up of the lower legs and wheel. When I stripped the forks down I removed the damping adjuster from the damper rod and now I can't find how far it should screw on. If I screw it on as far as it will go, I only get about 1/2 turn of damping adjustment. The service manual only says don't remove it. Is there a standard number of turns for the rebound screw or a distance to screw the damping adjuster onto thee damper rod?

[sirch345]

I don't know about any set figure for setting the rebound adjusters, although you are not that far off with 1/2 a turn on each. Hopefully another forum member can advise you on that

Chris.

[tony.mon]

Yep, that caught me out first time I stripped standard ones. Too late now, but making a note of how far in you set the rod as you disassemble is key.

The amount of thread you can see with the locknut tightened under the fork cap is what needs to be set; you don't simply screw it in as far as it will go, which seems instinctively correct.

All you can do now is to pull them apart again and adjust until you get a reasonable range of adjustment, but make sure both legs are set the same.

Unless anyone can advise the correct number of threads showing?

[Pete.L]

Or,
with my SP forks, which I'm hoping has a similar rebound set up, Loosed the fork cap back off. Wind the rebound screw in fully. Slowly wind the fork cap back on until the pin (valve tip) just lightly touches the rebound rod. Back the Fork cap off about 1/16 of a turn and tighten up the locking nut.
That should put you back in the proper position.

Cheers

Pete.l

[baynesy]

Thanks for the feedback.

This morning I decided to have a bit of a play. Setting front and back on paddock stands I took both fork caps off and adjusted the damping adjuster so that there was 2 turns of adjustment available. This can be done in situ by lifting the front wheel on a jack to create enough space for the spanner to fit under the fork cap. Watch out for the cup washers though, they are easy to knock out and lose them under the tank. Better to remove them while making adjustments.
I then put it all back together and tested to see how it felt. There didn't seem to be any difference in the first half turn but the second half turn did change the damping a little.
I lifted the bike again and re-adjusted the damping adjuster so that both forks had 1 1/2 turns of adjustment and then retested. It now has a change in every half turn so I decided to leave it set at 1 1/2 turns. I am not sure that I really need the first half turn, time will tell, but it does no harm to be there. I could have left it set at 2 turns but I thought the tests worth it.

Martin

[sirch345]

Well done Martin, at least you have it where you want it now

Chris.