day at the dyno

[lloydie]

Day one at the dyno .

last years run the bike gave out 103.36 bhp and 68.31 torque .
dyno jets -190 ,k&n ,race cans


today it gave out on the first run 104.6 bhp and 67.23 torque
dyno jets-190 ,k&n, race cans , stick coils, tps set to 430ohms, restricter removed from exhaust ,
aliminum stacks, blue is last years ,red this year


then we took out the snorkel and it ran even richer .
then we tried it without the air box lid just the filter and it wouldn't pull first gear
as my k&n filter was bone dry we gave it a oiling then put it back together for one more run.
red this year , blue last year

as you can see its has better power and torque but its not smooth .
i will be going back in two weeks with my spare carbs fitted as the mixture screws work and move freely .
im going to order 185 mains and drop the needle one notch .
on first look the new stacks give better top end without loosing the grunt in the mid range .
just a little vid of the first run
[youtube][/youtube]
any suggestion on tweeking to get better curve benny/tony anyone ?

[AMCQ46]

So a bit of a confusing day. running too rich through the mid range. That should be the needle not just the main jet but it was even worse last yr, so the trumpets are making it slightly leaner than it was.

Edit Sorry, I should have looked closer, the red is this year, and the blue is last yr, so it is running richer now than before the trumpets were fitted

[agentpineapple]

interesting reading, i haven't got a base line run to go against when i take my bike to the dyno man, so its interesting to see what changes you have made and how its effected the bike. as tony says unless you do 1 change at a time followed by a dyno run, you never really know whats doing what.
as i mentioned before 105bhp is a good figure for a bike without engine mods.
roughly how much did the dyno time cost lloydie.....

[lloydie]

It's running very rich that's why I'll be dropping the needle one clip and taking the main jet down from 190 to 185 then it should be just a play with the mixture screw . I have standard pilots fitted so I might try bigger one and see .
The dyno only cost me £40 for 6 runs .
I did all the work and kev just run it on the dyno so to keep the cost down .
Mine is the first storm he has had in there so we are both learning .
If you look at the dates of the first run and the last run dead on one year apart
That's spooky lol . If we cant get rid of the dip in the curve I might try a different filter . Bit I will try the rest first

[tony.mon]

It's running well elan throughout main jet range, so up one or two sizes there, but surges to very rich earlier on.
You might want to buy some new needle jets; they do wear on these, and possibly needles as well.
You can go up a size on the emulsion tubes which will also help.
But one change at a time....

[benny hedges]

premature richness i woud suggest you also replace the diaphragm springs.
they get very weak over time - you will notice a new one is a good 4" longer than a 10 year old part.

also, have you drilled an extra hole in the slide?
really does not do any favours on the storm ;)

[tony.mon]

premature richness i woud suggest you also replace the diaphragm springs.

Good call.

[lloydie]

thanks guys
i will be pulling the carbs off the bike on monday to see whats condition they are in ,
i know they have a dyno jet kit fitted .
so if i need new springs and needle i might as well but a new jet kit
i think they are on standard slow jets to - but i do have two k 48s jets in the spare carbs if needed .
i will also check to see if the po has drilled the slides .
am i correct in thinking there should be only 2 lift holes in standard slides ?
and how long are the dyno jet springs ?

[tony.mon]

48 is the standard size, try 50's if you need to go richer.

Make sure you order Keihin or equivalent 50's , not Dynojet 50's- they're different.
(not absolutely sure that this applies to pilot jet sizes, but it does to main jet sizes, so be careful).

There are a few conversion tables on the interwebby, but here's one to illustrate the point:
http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/show ... hp?t=64769

[lloydie]

Thanks tony .
I've been up most of the night reading settings on the superhawk site .
Never thought it was so hard to set these up good .

[tony.mon]

That's why I take mine to a tech with a dyno who has lots of experience setting these things up.

It's cheaper that way, a good one will get it right in two or three goes, one who's not worked on these before will spend all afternoon playing about; he'll get there eventually but you'll be paying for him to learn how to do it.

They're just nowhere near as straightforward as an IL4.

[lloydie]

Where do you take yours tony as it might be worth the trip if it can be done in a day ?

[agentpineapple]

i plan to take my bike to tonys dyno guy towards the end of next month, we could always go at the same time lloydie, i will not be holding hands with you tho

[lloydie]

No as mine will loose 40bhp sat net to a blue one lol .
I won't be going on the welsh trip now so I have some money to get the dyno work done right .
As I still have the 18th of may of I might try to get it done then

[Styler4077]

The fuelling is way to rich all the time, any thing over 13.5:1 IE 14:1 is lean and if it less than 12.5:1 IE 11:1 is rich.
It's not running lean.
No damage can be done it just wastes fuel and you do not get the best AFR for power.
These lumps at the start of must dyno runs are just blips happens most of the time and my dyno is the same make as Projex.
The fuel analyser on these dyno seam to do this all the time, I can show you plenty of these runs with this blip.
The perfect (stoichiometric ratio) AFR is 14.7.
The difference in the start up lumps is when the operator pressed the start button. I.E around 300rpm difference between the two runs.
Hope this helps
Styler.