Bazza CCT fitting question.

thetroublemaker · Post by **thetroublemaker** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 1:09 pm

Cool!

For me myself, I am more than happy to invest the extra time to ensure the job is done correctly.

Thanks for the tip - just setting the cams up before changing the tensioner on the rear cylinder!

Dave.

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 1:20 pm

It's gone very quiet, maybe taking the rocker cover off takes more than 20 minutes.........

It does when you remove the front cover

Troublemaker, seems like you are going to a lot of trouble there

No seriously, seems like you are going through it step by step very thoroughly, but making hard work for yourself. But seeing as your doing the valves anyway, your taking the best approach. It probably would have been worth knowing that you was intending on doing the valves in the first place, and then advice could have been tailored accordingly!

When i have seen references to "doing the front cylinder by feel" do i assume that is only due to people not taking the rocker cover off the front one?

Yes. It saves a lot of time!

I already have taken the fairing and the front rocker cover off, therefore I can do the front one exactly the same as the rear, as i am doing the valve clearances also at this point.

And yes again. Just make sure that your timing on the flywheel is on FT (Front Top Dead Center) on the compression stroke.

How about some piccies for us to see what you are doing and to follow along to. I for one would like to see the front rocker off with the cams all set up to go for changing the CCT

How Fun

(:-})

thetroublemaker · Post by **thetroublemaker** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 2:15 pm

Next question,

With the auto tensioners in i only had about 5mm slack on the chain measured between the cams on my vernier calipers.

Should I set the manuals according to the same as the auto's or set it to an exact 7mm?

AMCQ46 · Post by **AMCQ46** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 3:39 pm

you need to set the Manual CCT's to have more slack as they cant move to accomadate the thermal expansion like the Autos

thetroublemaker · Post by **thetroublemaker** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 4:14 pm

Cool!

Makes perfect sense - done that now with a good 7mm inward depression !

Bob C · Post by **Bob C** » Thu May 10, 2012 7:03 pm

I've just fitted a set of Bazza's manual CCT and went with the locking key method. Longest part of the job was making the bloody key according to the haynes manual spec. Once the key was made just locked the key in place and held it with tape then pulled the old ones out, measured the length of the tensioner and slipped the new one in. Measured the free play on the cam chain between the cam shafts (6.5mm - 9mm) and then locked them off. Bike started, ran and sounds sweet. Like the guys on here say, there's more than one way to peel an orange.

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Thu May 10, 2012 10:10 pm

Nice one Bob, well done mate.

thetroublemaker did you get it all done, how's it all going/running, is it all sorted now.

(:-})

Post by **firestorm996** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:58 pm

I'm new to manual CCTs but the bike I'm going looking at later has some fitted, as do many others I've looked at on eBay. How much of a pain in the butt are they to tension up and how often do they need adjusting?

Kev L · Post by **Kev L** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 8:09 pm

Once set up they require very little maintenance. Just nip them up if there is a variation in the noise coming from the engine. I haven't had to touch mine since fitting them in February 2011.

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 10:16 pm

Kev L wrote:Once set up they require very little maintenance. Just nip them up if there is a variation in the noise coming from the engine. I haven't had to touch mine since fitting them in February 2011.

+1 6000 miles since fitted and no adjustment needed

benny hedges · Post by **benny hedges** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 11:28 pm

lloydiecbr wrote:
Kev L wrote:Once set up they require very little maintenance. Just nip them up if there is a variation in the noise coming from the engine. I haven't had to touch mine since fitting them in February 2011.
+1 6000 miles since fitted and no adjustment needed

did close on 20k on mine and was just starting to get noisy.. mustve been all of a 1/4 turn.

BigVeeGrin · Post by **BigVeeGrin** » Wed Jun 06, 2012 1:19 pm

reassures me

Had mine done in 2010 and will poss get looked at by someone in the know at the workshop day to be sure. Guess it's straightforward to do this at the same time as valve clearances?

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Wed Jun 06, 2012 5:15 pm

BigVeeGrin wrote:reassures me Had mine done in 2010 and will poss get looked at by someone in the know at the workshop day to be sure. Guess it's straightforward to do this at the same time as valve clearances?

Yes, easy to do at the same time; in fact essential as you'll have to keep taking your cams on and off to replace the shims.
Can't do that with the manuals in place and tensioned, so you'll need to reset them afterwards.

mattycoops43 · Post by **mattycoops43** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:33 am

Is Bazza still making these and where do we get them from?

ta

Post by **sirch345** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:56 am

IMHO measuring the up and down movement of the cam chain between the cam sprockets is the safest way to fit manual CCT's, unless you have the knowledge/experience like Tony Mon and some others have in doing the final adjustment by ear. Doing the hand tight method (as discussed before sometime ago ) does mean one persons idea of hand tight is different to another, so my not be so accurate.

The main thing after fitting manual CCT's, when you think you have adjusted them correctly is, you are not hearing a chirp or squeak on start-up when the engine is warm/hot. If you do one or both are set to tight, if left will cause damage to the camshaft bearings which on the Firestorm is part of the cylinder head.

Chris.

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