engine rebuild

[VTRDark]

Good news on the standard airbox. I would get everything else working properly with the standard airbox and then put the cylone back on and play with carbs. Adding the cylone now wont help you diagnose any other possible problems that may show up.

no plain on cylinder block

Not sure what you mean there by plain. Bit of a language interpretation problem there. At a guess I think your trying to say it's not level and may need some machined. I'm not sure how you have come to that conclusion now it's all back together. I would leave that for now as it will cause more complications. As long as the gasket is sealed with no leaks and you have good compression then it's good.

I would worry about the cooling system for now. Is it circulating with no leaks or anything. No pressure could be something silly like a faulty radiator cap. Have you bled the cooling system to make sure there are no airlocks. I usually leave the radiator cap off, fill up, start engine with the cap off and allow to warm up. While it's warming up squeeze any hoses you can reach like the lower radiator hoses to force any trapped air out. Also give the engine a rev and you should see the coolant circulating in the radiator. Top up as needed. Once this is done, put the cap back on and bring the engine back up to temperature watching the temperate gauge until the fan runs. The fan should start roughly just past the half way mark on the temperature gauge.

(:-})

[macin]

i am sorry cybrecarl, my fault and poor language issue

what i wanted to say, is that surface of engine block is not straight, this is why i got too big pressure in coolant, compression is 8.5 bar rear and front cylinder, headers are fine - straight surface, engine is in parts right now ... i am fall in love with vtr, i don't want to put there any other engine, i think i will decide to repair block

[macin]

Hey guys !!

i need Your help

Do You have any advice about (and here we got translation problem) run in / break in engine ? i have changed cylinder block and did block surface, now i need to run in / break in engine

i was reading about doing 200 km with half RPM, then change oil and do 100 km with 3/4 RPM and then change oil and run as always

or

run as always

or

do 200 km carefully then run as always

all i want to do is to do it right

[Pete.L]

Depends on the type of engine work you have done.
If you have changed pistons and had the bores honed (milled) I would suggest running 200 km at 1/2 revs, oil change and then up the revs.
But if you have just milled the blocks all you need to worry about is the gaskets resealing themselves and not having any loose nuts and bolts coming apart so I would just drive it gently for the first 100 kms to make sure every thing is safe and then go for it.

Pete.l

[macin]

Thank You Pete !

i just milled the blocks, so gently gently and then it will be fine

and i think i will change oil after some kilometers (200-300)

i just love that engine so i need him to work perfectly

[VTRDark]

Running in an engine is mainly for seating new piston rings in place, so unless any major block work has been done, ie pistons, rings, main bearings etc then not to worry. As Pete says just take is easy for the first 100 or so miles/kilometres.

(:-})