Maintenance on Parts that are Likely to Seize

[thunderbolt]

On reading the thread by NZS re: removing exhaust pipe to head stud nuts I thought I should check that mine were ok. I have a couple of nut splitter tools by Toledo but did not want to wreck the exhaust nuts if there was no need for it. So I used a short ring/open end 10mm spanner on them (used the ring part). The idea was to use the shorter spanner so I could not get too much leverage and snap the studs. Anyway I was able to get all 4 exhaust nuts to move without any mishaps. Only undid them about 1/2 a turn. Should I take each nut off completely and coat the studs with anti-seize?

Are there any other parts that are likely to seize up from the weather, road grime, etc? I have heard people on here mention the starter motor. What's involved in getting that off and which are the parts that are likely to snap? I also think I have read somewhere about one of the upper engine mounting bolts being difficult to remove through corrosion. Any advice on how to service this bolt, if my recollection is correct. Anything else that I need to look at?

Maintenance List:

1. Exhaust stud nuts;
2. Rear suspension linkage and swing arm bearings;
3. Starter motor;
4. Front upper engine bolt;
5. Remove any nuts exposed to the weather and apply anti-seize before replacing;


Thanks

[sirch345]

The rear suspension linkage and swingarm bearings need regular servicing. Take a look here if you've not already:-
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=11809

Good on you for thinking about looking after seizable parts before they seize

Chris.

[thunderbolt]

The rear suspension linkage and swingarm bearings need regular servicing. Take a look here if you've not already:-
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=11809

Good on you for thinking about looking after seizable parts before they seize

Chris.

Thanks Chris for the

I have already been through the dramas with the rear link:-
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 82#p334282

Any others you can think of?

Thanks

[VTRDark]

What a good idea thunder stick the list of items at the bottom of your post so when anyone see this thread they see everything in one place. Then just add to the list as other suggestions/places get posted.

All the engine mounts go dry but the front one in particular has a habit of seizing in place where it runs through the engine casings.

Slow Turning Over, very Corroded Starter Connections

Wheel bearings/spindles. I'm often having to give them a bit of lube, especially in Winter/wet weather.

(:-})

[thunderbolt]

What a good idea thunder stick the list of items at the bottom of your post so when anyone see this thread they see everything in one place. Then just add to the list as other suggestions/places get posted.

All the engine mounts go dry but the front one in particular has a habit of seizing in place where it runs through the engine casings.

Slow Turning Over, very Corroded Starter Connections

Wheel bearings/spindles. I'm often having to give them a bit of lube, especially in Winter/wet weather.

(:-})

That is a good suggestion Carl, I will see to it.

Thanks.

[lloydie]

Any and all nuts and bolts remove copper slip and replace .

[thunderbolt]

Any and all nuts and bolts remove copper slip and replace .

Thanks Lloydie. Your suggestion added to the list in Post #1.

[tony.mon]

If you are taking the engine out, grease all of the frame adjusters and bolts.
Sadly you need to take the engine out to get to the adjusters....

[thunderbolt]

If you are taking the engine out, grease all of the frame adjusters and bolts.
Sadly you need to take the engine out to get to the adjusters....

When removing and replacing the engine mounting bolts there seems to be a lot of concern about tightening them back in place correctly with special tools and tension wrench. How important is this? Is it not practical to remove the nuts from the front mounting bolt, remove it, grease it and then replace it? What is the layman's procedure for replacing the mounting bolts and tightening them correctly?

Thanks

[Wicky]

Workshop ‹ The Workshop Knowledgebase

Engine Mounting Bolt Sequence and Specified Torques > http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=27362

[darkember]

Exhaust nuts. In this country due to the wet and salty winter conditions it is always better to split the nuts off and get new ones. Where you live it is much drier and road grit is probably alien unless you live in the Blue mountains so corrosion on these parts will be less likely. Still for the cost of a few nuts its a lot less of a headache.....

[thunderbolt]

Workshop ‹ The Workshop Knowledgebase

Engine Mounting Bolt Sequence and Specified Torques > http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=27362

Thanks Wicky, a good article. Do you know if carl updated the document with the extra info that AMCQ added.

I'm thinking trying to get the front mounting bolt out and grease and replace will be more trouble than it's worth. Maybe I'll just squirt WD40 in around where the long bolt passes through the engine casing and hope it works its way in there and repeat every time I have the carbs off in the future.

Thoughts

[thunderbolt]

Exhaust nuts. In this country due to the wet and salty winter conditions it is always better to split the nuts off and get new ones. Where you live it is much drier and road grit is probably alien unless you live in the Blue mountains so corrosion on these parts will be less likely. Still for the cost of a few nuts its a lot less of a headache.....

You are completely true on your assessment of Australian conditions. There's not much grit or grime on our roads, even in the Blue Mountains. The main issue in the "Mountains" is being cranked well over and then discovering "wet" road half way round the corner. Riding in the rain is the main cause of grime and stuff being sprayed up onto our bikes. We don't get that much rain out here, even when we do have a downpour the sun will be out an hour later with no clouds in sight.

That is why I used a short handled spanner in the exhaust nuts, so I could not get too much leverage and snap the stud. The nuts gave way and came undone long before the studs would have snapped. I take your point though -- it's a good one. rather supply two (four) new nuts than remove cylinder head and its associated problems.

Thanks

[thunderbolt]

Well I decided to see if the front engine mounting bolt was seized or not. So I removed the RH nut and washer (see pic below). There was quite a bit of thread extending out beyond the frame to which I attached two nuts and locked them together. With this done I was able to rotate the bolt about a 1/16th of a revolution back and forth. Admittedly not much but enough to see it was not seized.



I then sprayed WD40 around where the long bolt goes through the crankcase lugs at the rear of the front cylinder (see below) then I applied oil as best I could to work its way in there. I know grease would have been better, but no way of getting it in there and I did not want to remove the long bolt and grease it as I may have upset the torque settings on the other side of the frame.



When re-torquing the nut and washer on the RH side it seemed to take a lot of effort and I was beginning to think it was going to strip or something. The torque setting for the nut was 47 lb ft so I backed the wrench off to 40 lb ft and I was already at that figure, so I tighten it a bit more and I was there.

Now all good. I know it's not seized and lubricated it as best I could.