*** IMPORTANT*** Swingarm and linkage bearings servicing***

[tony.mon]

Is it worth putting in the grease nipples as the bearing that is going to predominately fail is the one that cannot have a nipple & is closest to the exhaust which means that bearing needs to be lubbed once per year

I dont think it is,I will inspect and lube when I do my anual strip and deep clean etc.... during winter.

Tend to agree. I did mine, but as you say the needle roller cage won't accept a greasing point and so it still needs a dab of grease every time the rear wheel's out. Keeps the thread clean and lubed on the bolt. too.

But if anyone wants I have some grease nipples left over, for £5 posted a set of three.

[Stephan]

I completely renewed swingarm and linkage recently, maybe someone will find it useful

swingarm
name part q dimension note
BEARING,NEEDLE 91071-MR7-003 1 28x37x30 NTN HMK 2830
BEARING(20X37X9) 91072-MR7-003 2 20X37X9 NTN 6904
DUSTSEAL(28X37X4) 91202-MR7-003 2 28X37X4 std dimension, available
DUSTSEAL(27X37X5) 91257-KY4-900 1 27X37X5 at wemoto
DUSTSEAL(27X34X4) 91261-KZ3-861 1 27X34X4 at wemoto

linkage and shock bearing
BEARING(17X24X20) 91072-KT7-003 4 17X24X20 NTN 7E-HMK 1720
DUSTSEAL(17X24X5) 91262-KV3-831 8 17X24X5 lancashire seal at ebay.co.uk
BEARING,NEEDLE 91071-KV3-005 2 17X24X25 IKO YT 1725

My total price was about 80 pounds.
Funny is that dustseal 17x24x5 is made in Czech by gufero.com, but they didn´t have them in stock and another production batch was in next two months, so I had to purchase through UK shop :-)

[VTRDark]

I want to re-iterate the importance of linkage maintenance.

For those browsing this thread see the following:
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 46#p358033

(:-})

[Geordie]

Just stimulating an update here
im needing to buy the two needle roller bearings and the internal race or 'collar' spacer tube that are contained within the dogbone part of the linkage where it pivots attached to the swingarm. The bolt through it all is fine just the bearings and the inner race. Its hard to establish just exactly what numbers are refering to what in all these threads. The bearing races i take it are the ones referred to as 17x24x20 .. ?
Any idea where to get hold of the inner race or tube that sits inside it .. as far as i can see wemoto or DS dont have it..
cheers folks
George

[Wicky]

Is this what you're looking for? http://www.ronayersmotorcycles.com/fich ... veh=132082

http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/part ... 430112160/ (copy & paste the Honda part no. from Ron Ayers fiche into David Silvers 'Find by part no.' & same for Lings)

They'll order it in from Holland in a week.

or use Lings

http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_pa ... 4301-12160

[MacV2]

Just stimulating an update here
im needing to buy the two needle roller bearings and the internal race or 'collar' spacer tube that are contained within the dogbone part of the linkage where it pivots attached to the swingarm. The bolt through it all is fine just the bearings and the inner race. Its hard to establish just exactly what numbers are refering to what in all these threads. The bearing races i take it are the ones referred to as 17x24x20 .. ?
Any idea where to get hold of the inner race or tube that sits inside it .. as far as i can see wemoto or DS dont have it..
cheers folks
George

Phone them. Tell the guy on the other end what you want. He will be looking at the fisch drawing for that model/part & will be able to sort it out.

Use the numbers from the pic below, it's what he will be looking at...



They don't list every single part on the web page, it would be huge ! If they don't have one in stock they will order it in for you.

[Big_Jim59]

This answers one of my questions. Since I am going to have the whole swing arm out it makes sense to do the PMs while everything's apart. I doubt that it has ever been done but we don't usually see the corrosion problems here that you do. We don't have a whole lot of wet or salts on the roads.

[tony.mon]

By the way you don't have to order Honda bearings, any bearing supplier will be able to supply bearings given those three measurements- one is width, one is the outer diameter and one inner diameter. You just need to specify needle or ball and whether you need shields on one , none or both sides, and what material the shields are. (plastic or metal).
If you just take the old ones in they will do the rest.
Ask for good quality and tell them it should be heat resistant and weatherproof.

[Paultandy]

Hello all i just started to change all the bearings in the linkage and swingarm and got stuck with 2 of the bolts the one on the swingarm and the one that goes throw the back of the engine both have alan key heads on them it's like they or seized or sum thing. Can sum one please tell me how to get them out I've tried whacking them with a hammer to no joy thanks

[VTR Phoenix]

Whack harder with a bigger hammer, you'll probably find the bearings have collapsed and rusted which in turn seizes the bolt. Before whacking though get a socket on it and try to turn it, use a breaker bar if you have to then hit it

[Paultandy]

Used a bigger hammer and got the one on the swingarm out but nackerd the nut up the other one is sized solid ad to tack the bracket of the engine lol

[MacV2]

The one in the enigine...Put the nut back on before any hammer action or you will knacker the thread. Once you get it moving take the nut off & use a punch to knock it through. As said use a long as poss bar on the allen key to add leaverage to try & move it...Plus Gas over night might help.

Once you have the whole arm off (hopefully) for the other bolt holding the triangle bracket on...again soak it with plus gas* then try this...

Its awkward on you own but do able, just much easier if you have an extar pair of hands...

Get a socket that fits over the bolt head** but fits into the recece in the webbing. Now holding this in place get your helper to lift & hold & guide the swingarm & clamp it in a large vice. (in theory you could do this with a G-clamp but I dont think you'll be able to get enough pressure on it...)

So the socket is againt one jaw & the end of the bolt is against the other jaw...Now tighten the vice & keep tightening it, use a scaffold tube on the bar for extra leverage...

Until you hear a satisfiing CRACK ! as the corosion bond gives way...

I've done a couple like this with no problems...The first one I ever did before I tried this way I ended up cutting out with a grinder...

* Plus Gas is way better than WD-40 for rusted in nuts...Trust me I tried both...

** The socket here needs to be bigger than the bolt head as you looking to push the head out into the socket...IIRC it's an Allen head anyway.

It's easier to do than explain in txt thats for sure...

[sirch345]

* Plus Gas is way better than WD-40 for rusted in nuts...Trust me I tried both...

I agree with that Plus Gas seems to penetrate far better than anything else I've come across,

Chris.

[sirch345]

Bump,

Chris.

[misnblu]

I'll be doing this when I get home in a few weeks so hopefully all goes well.
Good thread here and I'll be putting it to use when I start.