To undo: I made a flywheel holding tool using an exhaust can clamp, worked well enough, and the rubber strap prevented damage.
Jam a suitable length section between the clamp bolt and the footrest (I used a 15mm ring spanner) to hold it still, then a socket fixed bar with a length of tube to give you enough leverage- an old fork leg or length of scaffold tube works well enough for me.
Then do it up tight with a regular 1/2" drive bar.
Lightened Flywheel - what's involved?
Re: Lightened Flywheel - what's involved?
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: Lightened Flywheel - what's involved?
iv changed a fair few at the house here for guys and never had to use anything more than the bike in gear,the back brake on and give it a good sharp crack and of it pops. iv heard of a few that needed a rachet strap round them to help them stay put but iv not had to use one.
its more a case of shock removing them more than brute force. it heps if you have another set of hands to put a screw driver in behind the flywheel at 3 and 9 oclock postions just to put a little pressure on the flywheel to help break the seal on the taper.
as for why you would want one, after using lighened flywheels the standard ones make them very docile and cuddly lol... if i want cuddly il lift my dog and cuddle it lol
its more a case of shock removing them more than brute force. it heps if you have another set of hands to put a screw driver in behind the flywheel at 3 and 9 oclock postions just to put a little pressure on the flywheel to help break the seal on the taper.

as for why you would want one, after using lighened flywheels the standard ones make them very docile and cuddly lol... if i want cuddly il lift my dog and cuddle it lol
the older i get,the faster i was 

Re: Lightened Flywheel - what's involved?
For removal, yes easy as can be, use a impact gun no worries and no need to hold. In gear brake on works as well.fabiostar wrote: ↑Wed Nov 28, 2018 8:54 pm iv changed a fair few at the house here for guys and never had to use anything more than the bike in gear,the back brake on and give it a good sharp crack and of it pops. iv heard of a few that needed a rachet strap round them to help them stay put but iv not had to use one.
its more a case of shock removing them more than brute force. it heps if you have another set of hands to put a screw driver in behind the flywheel at 3 and 9 oclock postions just to put a little pressure on the flywheel to help break the seal on the taper.
as for why you would want one, after using lighened flywheels the standard ones make them very docile and cuddly lol... if i want cuddly il lift my dog and cuddle it lol
Its the installation I suggest holding with a tool on the center section as designed and proper TQ wrench . As said, YUP, lots have don it with a rattle gun or socket and beaker bar while holding the flywheel with vice grips...
To each his own, do what works for you..
My common response to threads like this "Why is it so many have neither the time nor money to do it right the first time, but come up with both to do the job again?"
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Re: Lightened Flywheel - what's involved?
E.Marquez wrote: ↑Wed Nov 28, 2018 9:27 pmFor removal, yes easy as can be, use a impact gun no worries and no need to hold. In gear brake on works as well.fabiostar wrote: ↑Wed Nov 28, 2018 8:54 pm iv changed a fair few at the house here for guys and never had to use anything more than the bike in gear,the back brake on and give it a good sharp crack and of it pops. iv heard of a few that needed a rachet strap round them to help them stay put but iv not had to use one.
its more a case of shock removing them more than brute force. it heps if you have another set of hands to put a screw driver in behind the flywheel at 3 and 9 oclock postions just to put a little pressure on the flywheel to help break the seal on the taper.
as for why you would want one, after using lighened flywheels the standard ones make them very docile and cuddly lol... if i want cuddly il lift my dog and cuddle it lol
Its the installation I suggest holding with a tool on the center section as designed and proper TQ wrench . As said, YUP, lots have don it with a rattle gun or socket and beaker bar while holding the flywheel with vice grips...
To each his own, do what works for you..
My common response to threads like this "Why is it so many have neither the time nor money to do it right the first time, but come up with both to do the job again?"
ahhhhh can you imagine vice grips on a nice shiny flywheel



the older i get,the faster i was 

Re: Lightened Flywheel - what's involved?
Some of the ones Ive received ...looked like a metal eating beaver gnawed on it.. Now I like beaver but....what...... what were we talking about
Marquez Motorcycle Services
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Race/Adventure ride event prep
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Solutions to recurring maintenance
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Post event services
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And advanced Rider training
Re: Lightened Flywheel - what's involved?
lmao


the older i get,the faster i was 

- Commando77
- Posts: 200
- Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2017 10:35 pm
- Location: Fleet, Hampshire
Re: Lightened Flywheel - what's involved?
Well I realise the holding tool is best but I was planning to torque it with gearbox in top and brake on! Definitely wouldn't use a gun. Don't see a problem with steady torque as its tightened. Impact torque no.
Still pissing around with valve timing and clearances. I will get it back together by Xmas.
Still pissing around with valve timing and clearances. I will get it back together by Xmas.
Re: Lightened Flywheel - what's involved?
iv always used first gear when working on then?Commando77 wrote: ↑Thu Nov 29, 2018 7:48 pm Well I realise the holding tool is best but I was planning to torque it with gearbox in top and brake on! Definitely wouldn't use a gun. Don't see a problem with steady torque as its tightened. Impact torque no.
Still pissing around with valve timing and clearances. I will get it back together by Xmas.
the older i get,the faster i was 

- Commando77
- Posts: 200
- Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2017 10:35 pm
- Location: Fleet, Hampshire
Re: Lightened Flywheel - what's involved?
Good point. I've always used top on old Brit bikes for years undoing crank pulleys and clutch drums. First gives more advantage from engine end so its easier to force rear wheel round. In top with less mechanical force a braked back wheel does a better job. I had to think about tha because old British bikes have a sleeve gear on the main shaft which drives the front sprocket. Japanese bikes are opposite AFAIK in that the drive is via the lay or second shaft. Shouldn't make a difference though.