Well you asked for another Ducati build

[alanfjones1411]

Great skills

[buzzer]

Good work, well done

Having another read of this thread I can see how the red petrol tank will look better than the orange one with it being not so tall, although the orange tank looked okay to me until you posted a photo of the red tank on the bike

Chris.

Or will it be orange

I am not going to torture myself again over colour... ORANGE it is

[tony.mon]

That's what happens when you mistype 20 litres instead of 2 litres when buying paint online....

[Flatline]

Oh yes, I've got one of these somewhere in the workshop not like this though
Nice work

[buzzer]

Next the messy job of making a seat, well I actually made two as I couldn’t decide on shape! Its the one thing many people ask how I do it, so I have written a tutorial on it rather than post all of it here.

here is the link to my blog page


https://jtccc.wordpress.com/projects-2/ ... nufacture/



So just a few pictures…

[Dickiebig]

Looking good. I enjoy the write ups as well. Well done that man

[sirch345]

You make it look all to easy which I know it's not.

Great work again

Thanks for the link on "Tank and Seat manufacture" that was a good informative read

Chris.

[buzzer]

Today I made up some cables for the FCR’s. as they are split I have used a cable junction box, and made up the cables from scratch, including the brass nipples which I have soldered on.

here is a link to a video to see the action...

[buzzer]

Lockdown is good for progress! I have finished the frame modifications to clear the carbs, and finished the fabrication on the rear subframe so it's off to the powder coaters tomorrow.

I have also stripped the rear shocker so I can change the colour on the spring... not sure what to yet, but definitely not yellow! had to make a clamp as these are strong springs and I have the utmost respect when working with them under this much tension, hence the beefy plate and studs!

And here is the engine...

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[Dickiebig]

All looking stunning. Top work!!

[sirch345]

You are certainly getting on with it, well done it's all looking great
I like your spring compressor, like you say you cannot mess around with those heavy springs. It was a little easier when we had twin shocks

Out of interest what type of inner cable did you use for the throttle cables

I was going to modify a Fireblade throttle cable for the VTR (with higher Renthal handlebars), that was until I found you can't solder stainless steel cables,

Chris.

[buzzer]

You are certainly getting on with it, well done it's all looking great
I like your spring compressor, like you say you cannot mess around with those heavy springs. It was a little easier when we had twin shocks

Out of interest what type of inner cable did you use for the throttle cables

I was going to modify a Fireblade throttle cable for the VTR (with higher Renthal handlebars), that was until I found you can't solder stainless steel cables,

Chris.

I use cycle bowden cable Chris... and soft solder the brass nipples on. A couple of tips... push the cable through the hole and then fray the end of the cable... then pull the nipple up so the cable is expanded in the bigger hole on one side of the nipple. Leave 2mm of cable sticking through... Nexp bit is important, spray it with carb cleaner before attempting to solder it. Bowden cables are made with oil on them. Solder it with some solder and flux, and then grind the top off.

[sirch345]

You are certainly getting on with it, well done it's all looking great
I like your spring compressor, like you say you cannot mess around with those heavy springs. It was a little easier when we had twin shocks

Out of interest what type of inner cable did you use for the throttle cables

I was going to modify a Fireblade throttle cable for the VTR (with higher Renthal handlebars), that was until I found you can't solder stainless steel cables,

Chris.

I use cycle bowden cable Chris... and soft solder the brass nipples on. A couple of tips... push the cable through the hole and then fray the end of the cable... then pull the nipple up so the cable is expanded in the bigger hole on one side of the nipple. Leave 2mm of cable sticking through... Nexp bit is important, spray it with carb cleaner before attempting to solder it. Bowden cables are made with oil on them. Solder it with some solder and flux, and then grind the top off.

Many thanks for the advice on that, that's a big help, especially the carb cleaner bit

Is soft solder tin and lead and heated with a soldering iron

Chris.

[buzzer]

yes Chris, its plumbers solder... but not this eco crap, propper lead solder!

One of the things I have always struggled to get done is plating... I have had some terrible jobs done in the past, and lost critical small parts to the bottom of someone's plating vat!

so about 4 years ago I bought a plating kit to do zinc... Have to say it's VERY good and I have used it time and time again! its a bit time consuming, but time is something I have, particularly at the moment...

Here are the results for my latest build. the kit can do clear and yellow passivation, you can see the difference.

[tony.mon]

What was the kit cost, and can you add chroming?