Well you asked for another Ducati build

[sirch345]

That looks good

What did you use for the see through bit

Chris.

[buzzer]

The see through bit is Polycarbonate Chris...

One of the things I like to do on any build is to rubber mount any electrical components, it gives them a much easier life. The coils and the rear number plate holder are therefore supported by rubber bushes with collars in them to isolate the components from vibration. The coil rubbers are a standard size, but I needed to have a custom pair for the rear number plate as it was a none standard size. Rubber is almost impossible to turn… I read people put it in the freezer and use a very sharp tool, but in my experience that simply does not work… What does work is grinding it. Here is a 30 second video of widening the groove in a rubber bush in the lathe with a cutting disc in a Dremel.

[sirch345]

The see through bit is Polycarbonate Chris...

One of the things I like to do on any build is to rubber mount any electrical components, it gives them a much easier life. The coils and the rear number plate holder are therefore supported by rubber bushes with collars in them to isolate the components from vibration. The coil rubbers are a standard size, but I needed to have a custom pair for the rear number plate as it was a none standard size. Rubber is almost impossible to turn… I read people put it in the freezer and use a very sharp tool, but in my experience that simply does not work… What does work is grinding it. Here is a 30 second video of widening the groove in a rubber bush in the lathe with a cutting disc in a Dremel.

Yes of course Polycarbonate

I like the idea of rubber mounting the electrical components

Chris.

[buzzer]

In an effort to keep the lines of the bike as clean as I can, I have designed the loom to all come together under the tank, which makes it a little messy under there… I also struggled to make a bracket for the fuel tap I am using… I wont divulge how long that little bracket took to make!

[lloydie]

Not much room under there for sure .
Could you use small plugs ?

[sirch345]

There is rather a lot going on with that fuel tap mounting bracket by the looks of it
At least you managed to complete it

Chris.

[buzzer]

Not much room under there for sure .
Could you use small plugs ?

Not really... I need some of them to carry a few amps, so they need to be rated accordingly. there is actually a lot of room under there as the tank has a BIG cut out where the air box used to be

into some of the detail jobs now… Somehow I “lost” the brake light switch… I remember taking it off and putting it and the tiny plunger into a plastic bag… after spending a frustrating couple of hours searching (and finding stuff I had forgotten I had!!) I admitted defeat and bought a Hydraulic one, which worked out OK as I needed a new double banjo bolt to fit the brake lines! I took apart the stand switch cleaned and re- assembled and covered the cables with braided sleeving, which I find great. Its important the switch works well as its connected to the ignition… When the stand is down, the engine is limited to 2000 RPM, which prevents you pulling away with it down. Also made up some custom HT leads with copper cores so I can just use resistor plugs.

Finally I finished the ignition trigger… I have made a few of these in the past, but this time when I tried to order the Hall Sensors they were out of stock, with a delivery date of sept 22! There are alternatives, but better the devil you know… A good friend managed to find me 5 in Germany though. I held them in place with some hot glue, and then filled the void with potting compound which I have never used before. if anyone wants to make a trigger, the values of the capacitors and resistors are on the diagram.

the hall sensors are triggered by tiny magnets ( 3 x 5 mm) The south pole turns it on, north off… which means you have to determine the pole of the magnets! this is easily done by floating them on a piece of wood where they quickly align.

[sirch345]

It's always interesting to read and see what you do with the ignition side of things

Is that an oil temperature or oil pressure gauge you've added to the engine

Chris.

[buzzer]

It's always interesting to read and see what you do with the ignition side of things

Is that an oil temperature or oil pressure gauge you've added to the engine

Chris.

its a screw in temperature gauge... they sell them for a few bikes, they screw into the oil filler hole. I have one on my Harley as well

Fitted the new cambelts today… I like the Gates carbon Drive app to tension the belts. It measures the frequency of them when you give them a twang, like a guitar string, very sensitive and accurate. I set them to 110 HZ which also “feels” right.

I also went to pick up the oil cooler pipes I had dropped off to have the ends crimped on…I just don’t have the tool to do this. The miserable git plonked them on the counter and said £20… I looked and he had fitted different size ferrules on the ends… when I pointed this out he shrugged and told me it didn’t matter… well it does to my OCD… he was not happy when I refused to pay! This is why I hate putting work out.

[sirch345]

Those different size ferrules would have annoyed me too, don't certain people have any pride in their work anymore

It's amazing how you can tension the cambelts like that
Probably more accurate than how we used to set the tension on some car engine cambelts years ago. If you could get a 90* turn on the belt the tension was set

Thanks for the information on the oil temperature gauge

Chris.

[buzzer]

Yes, the old twist through 90 degrees worked for me for years

into the detailed jobs at the moment, in preparation for start up. The oil cooler was pretty tatty so I left it in a container with some thinners in the bottom for a few days, then washed the paint straight off. As its aluminium and I was going to paint it, I grit blasted it before giving a a thin coat of etch primer, followed by a couple of coats of satin black, which I prefer over matt. It came out really well.

Then onto the carb installation. The outer diameter of the carb inlets are different to that of the fuel filter, so I needed a “T” piece with different size ends. I made one out of brass and silver soldered the parts together. Finally I needed some cable adjusters. I popped to the cycle shop where I buy my bowden cable to make the throttle cables but they didn’t have any suitable. Again I ended up making these out of brass and a couple of bolts. The yellow tube is Tygon, made for Ethanol fuel. its very flexible and I like the idea I can see through it! It works best with Mikalor clips which are quite neat.

Finally I fitted the frame number sticker with the VIN number on, just to keep the MOT man happy. one of the problems with blasting and powder coating the frame is it becomes very difficult to see the frame number.

[buzzer]

One aspect of a build I like to get right is the throttle action... too quick and action and its jerky to ride and often heavy... too slow an action and it becomes two handfuls to fully open and I hate that...

I popped the cable on with the twin pull throttle of the Multistrada and it was just too quick and heavy... I needed to take 1mm off the diameter where the cables run. Of course you cant just pop it in the lathe as the cable boss prevents that... I looked at doing it in the milling machine and couldn't see any way of doing it... so I came up with this!

[sirch345]

Yes, the old twist through 90 degrees worked for me for years

into the detailed jobs at the moment, in preparation for start up. The oil cooler was pretty tatty so I left it in a container with some thinners in the bottom for a few days, then washed the paint straight off. As its aluminium and I was going to paint it, I grit blasted it before giving a a thin coat of etch primer, followed by a couple of coats of satin black, which I prefer over matt. It came out really well.

Then onto the carb installation. The outer diameter of the carb inlets are different to that of the fuel filter, so I needed a “T” piece with different size ends. I made one out of brass and silver soldered the parts together. Finally I needed some cable adjusters. I popped to the cycle shop where I buy my bowden cable to make the throttle cables but they didn’t have any suitable. Again I ended up making these out of brass and a couple of bolts. The yellow tube is Tygon, made for Ethanol fuel. its very flexible and I like the idea I can see through it! It works best with Mikalor clips which are quite neat.

Finally I fitted the frame number sticker with the VIN number on, just to keep the MOT man happy. one of the problems with blasting and powder coating the frame is it becomes very difficult to see the frame number.

Like you, I prefer satin to matt black myself

Great job, all of that is looking brilliant

Chris.

[sirch345]

One aspect of a build I like to get right is the throttle action... too quick and action and its jerky to ride and often heavy... too slow an action and it becomes two handfuls to fully open and I hate that...

I popped the cable on with the twin pull throttle of the Multistrada and it was just too quick and heavy... I needed to take 1mm off the diameter where the cables run. Of course you cant just pop it in the lathe as the cable boss prevents that... I looked at doing it in the milling machine and couldn't see any way of doing it... so I came up with this!

That's neat

Thanks for sharing the video,

Chris.

[buzzer]

Well I would like to say it started first time… but it didn’t…

I would like to say I found the problem in 10 mins… but I spent HOURS looking why it didn’t start. In the end I tracked it down to the fact that I had placed the magnets wrong on the ignition trigger wheel!

easily sorted soon as I spotted it.