Faulty ICM and/or converter unit

[Carter]

Hi guys,
New to the forum and the VTR.
So I've just had a bit of a worst case scenario happen.

My first 2005 VTR1000F purchase. So I've picked up the bike and was on my way back home, 8 hour trip but only made it an hour out and the bike died. Running smoothly prior to that and turned off just like a kill switch.

I checked fuses and cranked it over a dozen times until battery went flat. Had a new battery installed road side and nothing.

Next day transported it to the nearest Honda shop. They charged me an hours labour and said the ICM and converter are dead, the bike has no spark. They used another VTR there and could swap parts. Isn't the Hiss system ICM specific? So if they tried the other bikes ICM it wouldn't operate either?

I'm a little sceptical of the short time spent diagnosing. From looking at the manual I would expect it to take longer to go through each component.

Any help would be much appreciated. I need to get it home to start going over it.

[tony.mon]

Where are you based?
Also, how was it purchased? If from a shop or dealer, take it back. If from a private seller, contact them.
It sounds more more likely to be the sidestand or clutch cutout switch.

[MacV2]

If its a HISS bike then the ECU & ignition/key need to match... The dealer/stealer should know that...

[Carter]

Where are you based?
Also, how was it purchased? If from a shop or dealer, take it back. If from a private seller, contact them.
It sounds more more likely to be the sidestand or clutch cutout switch.

I'm Australian. Private sale so I'm in a bit of a sh1t position for legal consumer guarantees. Asked for money back but wouldn't budge on that only offering to pay half of the parts bill. He did come and recover me from roadside at least.

I'm thinking it's something simple too.

[Carter]

If its a HISS bike then the ECU & ignition/key need to match... The dealer/stealer should know that...

Yeah I couldn't see him pull down a customers bike to remove parts too much in an hour. From what it sounded like he just removed the 2 modules as they were easy to do on Saturday morning rush hour. So that clearly wouldn't work with the hiss system. Any way to check these or is it a last resort swap out if everything else checks fine?

[sirch345]

Where are you based?
Also, how was it purchased? If from a shop or dealer, take it back. If from a private seller, contact them.
It sounds more more likely to be the sidestand or clutch cutout switch.

Check out what Tony mentions re the side-stand and clutch cut-out switch,

Chris.

[Kev L]

Hope it works out ok for you mate, looks a nice clean bike

[fabiostar]

i had a neutral switch done that to me aswell, all spark went, god knows how but i replaced it and away she went again

[Carter]

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I ended up getting it home and tracking it down to the spark converter. The alloy cdi on the right. I could feel heat on the back of it with the key on in only a few minutes. I thought that was strange. Found one cheap from the wreckers, plugged it in and walla.

[Carter]

Does anyone know the model of this Yoshi system?

[Carter]

So I'm still having niggles with this bike.
What it is doing is cutting out just like hitting the kill switch about 15km into a ride.

It will fire up usually with about 10 to 15 mins rest, although the cutting-out duration progressively gets worse.

I'm assuming a heat-induced fault.
The bike runs perfectly otherwise and the same once it restarts.

I haven't been able to replicate it in the garage by the time I get home it's perfect again. So don't know if it loses spark or if it's a fuel issue.

List of things done.
-Carbs are clean/balanced/runs really good.
-New battery.
-New fuel, fuel cut-off appears to be working, clean and operates under vacuum.
-Tank is venting.
-New MOSFET regulator.
-Different ICM/converter/HISS/ignition switch. I have a few sets.
-Stick coils. The problem exists on old coils as well.
- Stator resistance/voltage is ok.
-Pulse coil I have not checked yet.
-Gear, pressure, clutch, and switches are all operating.
- Kill switch cleaned and tested.
-Connections and wiring look to be ok.

I see the thermostat sensor runs back to the ICM. Not sure that would kill the engine. Kind of left with the pulse generator or a fuel issue. Any other switches senses that are known to go bad?
Maybe the fuel diaphragm acts up when hot or loses vacuum?

I just found some corrosion in the terminal block on the starter relay. Like that dry joint white powder. Maybe that's it?