Newbie - General VTR questions...

[AlmostThere]

Hey all,

Just a few questions, wonder if anyone can help answer them:

1) How hot/cold do these bikes run on the gauge?

This one seems to run a little under half when out on open roads, but it warms up quite quickly if you are crawling around town, enough so to put the fan on (you only have one fan too, right?).

2) Front forks super soft?

I remember reading somewhere (here or elsewhere) that the front forks are rather soft, wasn't aware you can run through virtually all their travel under hard braking though. I'm 85ish kgs, I'll add in the last two 'rings' of preload but I'm pretty sure I might need some new springs. Would linear rate be better if its only me on the bike (no pillion/luggage). Rear suspension seems little too hard too, hmmm.

3) Is there a restriction in one of the exhaust silencers?

When warming the bike up some vapour comes out the exhausts but gradually this disappears from one before the other (left before right). When looking at aftermarket exhausts someone (can't remember where, I really should take notes) said that there is some form of 'cone' restrictor in one of silencers that he noticed when modifyng the stock cans. Is that true, or a load of twaddle?

4) Soft limiter at 10,300 rpm?

I've missed a couple of shifts and ended up over-revving the engine, not sure what it went to (didn't glance quick enough) but was well into the red. If it's a soft limiter I may have hit it and not realised.

5) Tyre pressures?

Handbook and Haynes both state 36psi front and 42psi rear, I shouldn't need to fiddle with these?

6) VTR 'V' model?

I see in Haynes (and online) reference to different models of VTR. I've seen a chart with registration dates with V being a 1997 model. Is that all the V would stand for, nothing special about it? Any idea then why a V model VTR would have a marginally lower recommended idle speed 1,100 (+/- 100) as opposed to all other models with 1,200 (+/- 100)?

7) Size of hex for crankshaft end cap?

I need to remove the crankshaft end cap when doing the tensioners but can't seem to find reference to the proper size. Biggest I have is 6mm, looks like 8mm maybe?

Thanks

[tony.mon]

1. Normal
2. Normal, get some springs and change the oil to 7.5 weight, 130
mm air gap.
3. Yes, in the rh can to system joint. You can remove it but there's no benefit.
4. Yes. You can't over rev except changing down too many gears at too high revs. There's plenty of valve to piston clearance with a standard engine.
5. That's what the manual says but it covers luggage and a pillion, so you can come down on those. Depends on what there's you're running, Dunlop's are built to take lower pressures.
32f, 36r seems a good starting point.
6. They changed the recommendation due to potential to stall when cold- carb farts. Tickover 1300 is fine, don't go below 1200.
7. 10mm. You'll probably have to buy a new cap anyway, the metal is sponsored by Cathedral City.

[8541Hawk]

About the only thing I would change is the temp sound just a touch high. I would suggest replacing the radiator cap as that could still be the OEM bit

[AlmostThere]

Spot on tony.mon, much appreciated

I will lower the tyre pressures and see how that goes, order a replacement crankshaft cap and get hold of some new springs/oil. Any make recommended, would the generic Hyperpro kit do or should I find some that are weight matched?

Is the air gap simply measured from the top of the stansion tube to oil level before you start putting parts back in?

Thanks 8541Hawk

Replace with a new standard item or something aftermarket?

I think my carbs need balanced (waiting on bits and pieces to build a manometer) and I read that running them unsynced can make it run a little hotter. Not sure how true that is.

[sirch345]

2) Front forks super soft?

I remember reading somewhere (here or elsewhere) that the front forks are rather soft, wasn't aware you can run through virtually all their travel under hard braking though. I'm 85ish kgs, I'll add in the last two 'rings' of preload but I'm pretty sure I might need some new springs. Would linear rate be better if its only me on the bike (no pillion/luggage). Rear suspension seems little too hard too, hmmm.


Thanks

Linear fork springs would be my choice, especially as it's only going to be you on the bike as you can get the correct springs for your own body weight. Roger Ditchfield at http://www.revolutionuk.co.uk/ should be able to supply them.

Roger D is a VTR Guru,

Chris.

[8541Hawk]

Thanks 8541Hawk

Replace with a new standard item or something aftermarket?

I run a Stant radiator cap on mine. I'll see if I can find the P/N

[tony.mon]

Yes re
Is the air gap simply measured from the top of the stansion tube to oil level before you start putting parts back in?

Leg compressed, spring out, jiggle the rod up and down a few times to blow out the bubbles.

(Sounds one a quiet night in for Micheal Jackson).

[AlmostThere]

Thanks again guys, sorry for the late response.

I contacted Roger but he's unable to supply the parts only. From what I've read about him and what little we spoke it's clear he's the right choice if you want a properly sorted front end, he knows what he's doing. However, the bike is 22 years old and I'm not sure spending £££ on the forks alone is the right choice for something I may not own years down the line.

I've wound on all the preload there is available on the forks and adjusted the damping to what I'm happy with. I also softened the rear as far as it would go and softened the damping. It's better, I guess I'll live with it. The bike doesn't seems to like being hurried in general (downshifted a little too early recently and had the rear almost lock up...I only did that once) so more relaxed braking (so I'm not running through fork travel) is probably more fitting.

I had a look for that Stant radiator cap and found a part number from an earlier post on here. I called a couple of places and gave them the number but it's not one they recognise. I guess they may have stopped making it?

Ride safe, and stay away from white lines in the rain!

[popkat]

Sort forks for £100. K tech linear springs, 10wt fork oil and a 140mm air gap and your there
Rear shock a Nitron is best on a budget but over £400 (doesn’t feel budget)

If you spend £500 it’ll be very well spent then if you sell the bike later on sell the Nitron separate and get some money back.


.

[AlmostThere]

Thanks for that popkat

I'll probably do as you suggest for the front end. I called them (K-Tech) for advice on spring rates and they suggested 9.5N (based on me being 85kgs, which is a guess on my part, I need to properly weight myself). I guess when I'm in there I should replace the seals and bushes. The lower legs could do with a refurb too. Hmm...might be a winter job.

Lowest I can find the Nitron shock for is £520 ish and then I should probably renew the linkage bearings etc, begins to add up. Will mull it over.

Thanks again for the advice, much appreciated.

[tony.mon]

Thanks for that popkat

I'll probably do as you suggest for the front end. I called them (K-Tech) for advice on spring rates and they suggested 9.5N (based on me being 85kgs, which is a guess on my part, I need to properly weight myself). I guess when I'm in there I should replace the seals and bushes. The lower legs could do with a refurb too. Hmm...might be a winter job.

It's a day job at the most! Even waiting for the leg paint to dry.

My own preferences, 7.5 weight and a 135 air gap works better for me, but Malcopops races, so I'm happy to respect his opinion.
I spent a fortnight playing with different weights and gaps, using aftermarket springs, to arrive at my choice.
That was with a Hagon rear, by the way, and I lost a fair amount of weight off the bike, mostly due to carbon and Ti replacement parts, so that helped.

[AlmostThere]

Thanks tony.mon

I appreciate your advice. Still not sure what I'm doing with them yet, if anything. As I get only a single day a week to ride/work on the bike I've been making the most of the good weather and putting plenty miles on he bike. I've shelved most other thoughts for the time being but will not doubt dig them up when the summer passes.