MCCT - easy question!!

[Donut 77]

Ok, I’m at the point in the write up where the old ones are out. I assume that the existing rubber insert and metal cap have to be reused? I have tried gently to pull them off but don’t want to pull too hard.

Am I being daft? Surely I need them? the little metal peg end on the new ones can’t just push up against the tensioner plate inside, can it?

It was going so well too..

[sirch345]

Ok, I’m at the point in the write up where the old ones are out. I assume that the existing rubber insert and metal cap have to be reused? I have tried gently to pull them off but don’t want to pull too hard.

Am I being daft? Surely I need them? the little metal peg end on the new ones can’t just push up against the tensioner plate inside, can it?

It was going so well too..

No, you don't need the rubber end and metal cap from the old CCT, you fit the manual CCT as it is,

Chris.

[Donut 77]

Thanks Chris. The reason I was looking at that was because it didn’t look as though the new ones would be long enough.

With the old ones still on, the chain section between cam sprockets was virtually zero movement - very stiff. As this unit was still working, I assume that this is the tension that Honda intended?

As a novice, I’m trying to balance this with the advice from the document on here which says to allow 5-7mm play.

6mm seems good - ie 3mm deflection in either direction.

I guess this doesn’t alter the timing, as the chain is pulled straight under load.

What torque for the mounting bolts pls? Haynes says 23Nm for the ‘blade and guide blade pivot bolts’ I don’t know if this is the same!?

[Donut 77]

Torque setting from Haynes. Still no clue?

[sirch345]

Setting the up and down movement of the cam chain between the two cam sprockets at 6mm should be okay.

The reason there is very little play in the cam chain with the standard CCT's still fitted is simply due to the standard CCT's self adjust somewhat, so that is normal.

The reason old standard CCT in your photo appears to be longer than the new manual CCT is because it is fully extended, when fitted in the engine the plunger is retracted a fair bit.

You're on the wrong page

It is 23Nm according to the Haynes manual, although I must admit I just tighten mine up to what I feel is correct through experience I guess.

Chris.

[Donut 77]

Thanks. I think we’ve got a slightly different Haynes as my 2.7 doesn’t look like that

Rear CCT done - only slight drama as I was torquing, the old 5mm Allen bolts were rounding, so I had to quickly make some 6mm bolts from b &q ones. Not the best quality for use on an engine, but only 20Nm.

Incidentally, the rear timing was fine but I’ve just started on the front and the two cam sprockets are perfect in relation to each other, but only once the FT mark has gone past. it’s probably a tooth out on the crank.

I’m guessing this is quite important and would mean that the spark is slightly late and even some exhaust may be sucked back in?!

[tony.mon]

One tooth on the crank is about two on the cam sprockets, because it's a four stroke they rotate at half crank speed.
All you can do is set then to the nearest cam sprocket tooth.

[Donut 77]

So I had planned to move the chain along one tooth on each of the cam sprockets, but since taking the auto CCT out and hand tightening the new one it would seem that the timing is now perfect. There’s obviously a bit of play in the system.

[sirch345]

So I had planned to move the chain along one tooth on each of the cam sprockets, but since taking the auto CCT out and hand tightening the new one it would seem that the timing is now perfect. There’s obviously a bit of play in the system.

That's good news

Thanks. I think we’ve got a slightly different Haynes as my 2.7 doesn’t look like that 8

Well I never, I agree your manual is different than mine

This is what my front cover looks like:

Chris.

[Donut 77]

Not quite the same. I think yours is superior, as it actually has the values I need

[Donut 77]

Just a note that when I was tensioning the lock nut, because I put high temp silicone around the base (as prescribed) the o ring had nowhere to seat. It just squidged out the side. I acted as though it wasn’t there, tightened up and smeared more silicone around the whole lock nut area too.

Had to make a quick decision as silicone paste was going off.

I hate engineering where it’s time depending. I like to ponder and mess it up a few times.

[sirch345]

Not quite the same. I think yours is superior, as it actually has the values I need

Chris.